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Right On - 5.5

Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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pro to 4.5", anchor bolts for Belay 1 and 2, gear anchor for Belay 3 and topout. R
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.60/5
  Rock Quality 3.60/5
  Scenery 4.83/5
  Fun Factor 3.60/5


**. 4 pitches. P1) Slightly runout slab protectable with small nuts near the bottom and a bolt mid-way. Belay from the bolts in the cave. P2) Short, awkward hand crack/lieback in a left-leaning corner. Belay at bolts on the huge ledge. P3) An even more awkward flaring chimney. Place a piece midway and then just run it out on the easy slab to the left. Scramble straight up in to the steep gulley and belay there. P4) Follow the gulley 'til it ends, traverse left, and chimney up a few moves into the notch between pinnacle tops to topout and belay. Downclimb to the ledge below in the back to find bolted rap chains, high on face to downclimber's right. Rap down ~99' (one 60 m rope will leave a spare foot or two on each end of rope, so make sure the ends are even!). Scramble down and circle counterclockwise back to base of route. Great views. Swooping stunt birds

Submitted by: ontherocks on 2005-07-13
Views: 1957
Route ID: 14218

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29 Ascents Recorded

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  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: kubok13 on 2014-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars none


Added: 2014-04-04

  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexpete on 2013-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars With Mark Butler

Fun lead and nice multi pitch

Added: 2013-07-28

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: el_pirata on 2012-02-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome adventure

not for new leaders. good for those with solid run out heads who love awkward stuff

Added: 2012-02-24

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: joshua.toenyes on 2010-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Climb

I had a blast leading this.

P1 - fairly well protectable up to the bolt, but runout after. There is about two moves right after the bolt that feel a little scary, then it gets easier as it runs out to the crack.

P2 - super short awkward pitch. Tape up for this one, the rock is really rough and has a tendency to eat through flesh if you get over zealous on your jamming.

P3 - P4 - P5 - I did this in 5 pitches, the last one was very short and in retrospect wasn't necessary, but I didn't know exactly how far it was to the top. There is a sharp traverse on the last pitch though so rope drag could be a serious issue.

The rap/walk off is just as described.

Great climb! I would do it again... maybe coerce somebody else into leading the first pitch though!


Added: 2010-03-29

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: charlenelieu on 2008-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars not your typical 5.5

This route was rated back when 5.9 was the highest rating, so be careful before getting on this thing. In today's standard, this would be at least a 5.8, if not 5.9 (depending on whether you play by Sierras grading or So Cal rating).

Easy route finding as it follows the crack straight up. A few run out sections make this potentially dicey for new leads. Not recommended as first multi-pitch despite its deceivingly low grade.

Added: 2009-06-20

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