pro to 4.5", anchor bolts for Belay 1 and 2, gear anchor for Belay 3 and topout. R
**. 4 pitches. P1) Slightly runout slab protectable with small nuts near the bottom and a bolt mid-way. Belay from the bolts in the cave. P2) Short, awkward hand crack/lieback in a left-leaning corner. Belay at bolts on the huge ledge. P3) An even more awkward flaring chimney. Place a piece midway and then just run it out on the easy slab to the left. Scramble straight up in to the steep gulley and belay there. P4) Follow the gulley 'til it ends, traverse left, and chimney up a few moves into the notch between pinnacle tops to topout and belay. Downclimb to the ledge below in the back to find bolted rap chains, high on face to downclimber's right. Rap down ~99' (one 60 m rope will leave a spare foot or two on each end of rope, so make sure the ends are even!). Scramble down and circle counterclockwise back to base of route. Great views. Swooping stunt birds
Submitted by: ontherocks on 2005-07-13
Route ID: 14218
P1 - fairly well protectable up to the bolt, but runout after. There is about two moves right after the bolt that feel a little scary, then it gets easier as it runs out to the crack.
P2 - super short awkward pitch. Tape up for this one, the rock is really rough and has a tendency to eat through flesh if you get over zealous on your jamming.
P3 - P4 - P5 - I did this in 5 pitches, the last one was very short and in retrospect wasn't necessary, but I didn't know exactly how far it was to the top. There is a sharp traverse on the last pitch though so rope drag could be a serious issue.
The rap/walk off is just as described.
Great climb! I would do it again... maybe coerce somebody else into leading the first pitch though!
This route was rated back when 5.9 was the highest rating, so be careful before getting on this thing. In today's standard, this would be at least a 5.8, if not 5.9 (depending on whether you play by Sierras grading or So Cal rating).
Easy route finding as it follows the crack straight up. A few run out sections make this potentially dicey for new leads. Not recommended as first multi-pitch despite its deceivingly low grade.