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The Flake - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.16/5 Average Rating : 4.16 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 37
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (74)
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Rock
pro to 3.5", 2 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.86/5
  Rock Quality 4.43/5
  Scenery 4.09/5
  Fun Factor 4.61/5

Description:

Route begins with a wide chimney and no pro for 15-20 feet. Above the chimney climb the obvious flake above it. Climb finishes with a few moderate friction moves many consider to be the crux.

Submitted by: chukker on 2005-09-05
Last Modified: 2007-02-20
Views: 1846
Route ID: 14162

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74 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bowleggedgoat on 2010-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars superior rock

ran out the beginning, that's def. the right choice. protects so good after that.

Added: 2012-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2011-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Flake

I really enjoyed this route, quite varied for Jtree. Ran the roof out which protected well with a #3 C4 at the top. Follow easy cracks up to the face. Pass a couple of spinners on the upper face. With Joe K, finishing out a day out in Wonderland.

Added: 2011-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-12-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

stoutttt

Added: 2011-12-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: claytonaugust on 2011-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Really, really fun

Consider bringing a #4 or even a #5 if you want to protect the offwidth.

Added: 2011-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dindolino32 on 2011-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Still THE best 5.8 I've ever done. Beats out Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite

Wow! After a few years since doing this route, (and considerably a stronger climber) I thought I would drag a buddy of mine up this route. I was amazed at just how unique, challenging, and varied the route actually was. This included offwidth, stemming, laybacks, and slab. The chimney can be protected w a smaller ~.75 ish cam and a #5 c4 would totally protect the moves to the exit. Remember to extend to reduce rope rag later. I only brought cams but found that there were prob more hex/nut placements throughout. At the top just trust those feet and go! It seems super runout but really it's not too bad and would only be bad (ie cheese grater) if you had rope out for the clips and fell. We split it into 2 pitches for easier communication/coaching. Rap off the rings on the north side of the rock and enjoy This wonderful route.

Added: 2011-10-24

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