Crux is low, then the pitch backs way off. I consider this lead delicate pro off the deck. The crux moves are intricate smears. Was not overly impressed with the route, not near as good as other 2, 3 and 4 star 5.10's in Miramontes guide.
The feet were thin and the reach was very long. I felt very stretched out trying to make the crux moves. My leader places at least four nuts through the crux. Another, easier crux was up through the last bulge to the top. Felt like I was going to barndoor until you reach the "thank god" jug.
This is a good one! Folks kept telling me how thin and hard to protect this is... I agree and disagree. Although it is thin, it protects NO problemo with some small cams C3-0 to C4-.25/.04 plus some nuts. Single 10b-ish move about 1/3 up.
EDIT: defo do not need 2 ropes. a 60 will do the rap to an easy n short 4th class down climb. 70m will put you on the ground.