Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Calaveras Dome : Hammer Dome : Gemini
PreviousGemini - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
Standard free rack (to 4", a #4 Camalot protects the OW move on P2)
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Description:
The route's name refers to the beautiful twin cracks on the 4th pitch. Park at power station, and approach on downhill side of aqueduct/penstock. Curve downhill below large tunnel through cliff, avoiding the Poison Oak. P1 climbs slab protected by bolts and gear, ending at nice big tree, full 60m pitch. CLASSIC route.
Submitted by: slobmonster on 2006-09-20
Views: 2506
Route ID: 16556
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13 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 13 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
direct start
OW moves on 2nd pitch are crux. #4 is useful.
Added: 2015-04-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
fun in the sun
Simuled the first 2? pitches with Salamanizer. Very nice finger crack up higher. Almost got the rope stuck on the second rappell back to packs at start of climb.
Added: 2009-10-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Humped the bulge
F the bulge before the little bush.
Added: 2009-05-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
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First few pitches arn't that great. One fist move over a buldge into a troff and its easy sailing walking up the arete outside the offwidth. I wouldn't say this route is an "offwidth", as you don't have to offwidth anything. Last pitch is some 4th class crack to a short but really good 5.8 finger crack. Two ropes gets you to the ground in 2 raps. Otherwise its several traversing raps back down the route.
Added: 2008-10-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Bats in the crack
Really good climb. No wonder it's considered a classic for the area. I followed on this one. When I got to the final pitch with the cracks up there, I struggled to dislodge a nut from the crack, and when I was working it, I heard a squeeking sound (thought it was the hardware doing the squeeking). I peered closer into the shadowy crack and saw a little bat looking at me and shuffling around in there. Interesting finale to a cool climb.
Added: 2007-06-05
