Skip to Content

Gemini - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Standard free rack (to 4", a #4 Camalot protects the OW move on P2)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.20/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

The route's name refers to the beautiful twin cracks on the 4th pitch. Park at power station, and approach on downhill side of aqueduct/penstock. Curve downhill below large tunnel through cliff, avoiding the Poison Oak. P1 climbs slab protected by bolts and gear, ending at nice big tree, full 60m pitch. CLASSIC route.

Submitted by: slobmonster on 2006-09-20
Views: 1400
Route ID: 16556

Most Recent Photos

13 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2009-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun in the sun

Simuled the first 2? pitches with Salamanizer. Very nice finger crack up higher. Almost got the rope stuck on the second rappell back to packs at start of climb.

Added: 2009-10-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: n2dfyr on 2009-05-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Humped the bulge

F the bulge before the little bush.

Added: 2009-05-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars -

First few pitches arn't that great. One fist move over a buldge into a troff and its easy sailing walking up the arete outside the offwidth. I wouldn't say this route is an "offwidth", as you don't have to offwidth anything. Last pitch is some 4th class crack to a short but really good 5.8 finger crack. Two ropes gets you to the ground in 2 raps. Otherwise its several traversing raps back down the route.

Added: 2008-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: CaptainPolution on 2007-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2007-12-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: brri2000 on 2007-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bats in the crack

Really good climb. No wonder it's considered a classic for the area. I followed on this one. When I got to the final pitch with the cracks up there, I struggled to dislodge a nut from the crack, and when I was working it, I heard a squeeking sound (thought it was the hardware doing the squeeking). I peered closer into the shadowy crack and saw a little bat looking at me and shuffling around in there. Interesting finale to a cool climb.

Added: 2007-06-05

... Read all 13 ascent notes