It was extremely windy and freezing cold so we came down, essentially having climbed the hardest pitches.
1) approach -- well I was comfortable climbing this thing, but there is no way this is 4th class... both the members of my party needed to be roped up. 2) 1st pitch, again, hard start and no real protection for a while. The rest of it (once you traverse right) is easy but the rock is mungy. 3) remaining pitches: just awesome. All face/slab climbing is very run out. You must be solid on Yosemite 5.8 slab (I typically climb the Grack then practice on the slabs just below/to the right of it, it, which are 5.8 - 5.9).
The first pitches aren't very fun and fairly easy. The 5.9 friction pitches are tricky and quite runout. BETA: On pitch 4 start by climbing straight up from the belay and clip the pin before traversing right to the bolts. I almost factor two'd here by missing the pin. On the 5th pitch I climbed up and clipped the three closely spaced bolts, down climbed below them and then traversed left and straight up to the top of the pitch without gear on 5.7 slab. This seemed like the safest way.
The first few pitches are sort of mediocre. The slab pitches are interesting with some easy runouts and well protected cruxes. The final chimney is the best pitch - fun, easy, well protected, and a good introduction to Yosemite chimney climbing.
We were baking in the sun the whole way up this thing, and only had a liter of water for the 2 of us. The wind finally picked up as we started the rappels and cooled us off but also caused an endless number of rope snags.