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Nutcracker - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.48/5 Average Rating : 4.48 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (148)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.88/5
  Rock Quality 4.66/5
  Scenery 4.68/5
  Fun Factor 4.61/5

Description:

5 pitches, crowded due to its overrated reputation; pretty much a chosspile; climb is runout and dangerous. ANOTHER OPINION: Take the left variation start. Nice layback. It is not runout, the crux isn't that hard, you can get pro in by your feet after the crux, and if it is crowded, start early on Sunday morning, and you will score booty from people bailing the night before. It is a fun route and I got to share belays with a really hot chick while my partner had to share belays with her boyfriend. The FINAL opinion: pay attention on the mantle. Some guy who thinks it's "well protected" breaks an ankle here annually. Johnny Woodward's favorite freesolo in the park.

Submitted by: gclimbalot on 2006-01-03
Views: 2837
Route ID: 211

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148 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars As good as I expected it to be

Lead P1-P2 and P3. Route was really good. (First ones on route at 10:30am after a rainy morning). Perhaps a little harder than I expected it to be. The crux of P4 would be pretty scary on lead but Eric just jumped from the left jug like it was nothing while I right heel hoked with a little bit of trouble. The view from the top of Manure PB is amazing.

Added: 2013-06-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mathdesj on 2012-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nicest 5.8 Ever!

Especially P1. Perfect and sustained lieback. Perhaps the most beautiful 5.8 I've ever done! Led P1 P2 P4.

Added: 2012-10-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: OrionAgnew on 2012-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars n

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Added: 2012-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jpjpjp on 2012-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Promised Land

First climb in Yosemite Valley! It is amazing here! Leading Pitch 1 was awesome doing the layback slightly runout. The holds are slim on the steepest section here and you don’t want to take away a hold with pro. That said I probably could have placed some pro by my feet once I passed it. Pitch 2 was fine but super easy. The climbing gets to be 5-star again right after it though. Pitch 3 was amazing jamming up the crack system. The way we did it, we had a long Pitch 4 to right under the “crux.” Being 5’10” the crux was super easy and seemed like a 5.6 maybe 5.7 move… It would be much harder for a shorter person. Great top-out with an awesome view.

Added: 2012-06-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2011-09-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finally got to finish this darn thing

With Colin from Scotland! Onsighted p1-2 October 2010 (then stormed off), so I gave those leads to Colin. Then we swapped leads to finish. We had the route to ourselves that morning. Hot and greasy! Mantle move was exciting and scary for me. Due to the length and traversing nature of the crux pitch, I could see it being possible for the second to also sustain an ankle injury if they fell off the crux move (with rope stretch). I kept my second very tight at the start.

Added: 2011-11-06

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