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Evangeline - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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1st pitch only:3 slings, 4 draws, #1 camalot; for whole route:standard Eldo rack (emphasize thin)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This is an exciting, fun route. Most people only do pitch one, but the upper pitches are good and super-exposed. It starts just right of the lower ramp--look for a bolt beneath a juggy roof which leads to a right-trending ramp. The roof is fun 5.10, and the reachy 5.11- crux is just above the ramp. To continue, aid the huge roof with 3-4 bolts, and belay just above at 2 bolts. The next pitch is pretty hard 5.10 with a lot of old suspect fixed pro (heads, pins, 1/4er's, studs, etc.)--we got off route on the upper half of this pitch onto easier but runout climbing. Either way, the final pitch ascend the beautiful Psycho Slab (5.9, old bolt) up and right to the upper ramp. Rappel T2, or continue with an upper route.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-05-21
Views: 643
Route ID: 53036

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1994-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the standards

I've climbed the first pitch many times when it was too rainy to go anywhere else. I've done the pitch above the roof once; it scared me good. I should go back and enjoy it more.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: matd on 2007-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars full evangaline

the upper pitches are where the real climbing is.
6 bolts out the roof. 10b up the headwall. Beware the Psycho Slab.

Added: 2007-04-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: taco_bill on 2001-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2001-08-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gambler on 1983-05-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I just did the 1st pitch,but it was cool!

Added: 1983-05-16