This is an exciting, fun route. Most people only do pitch one, but the upper pitches are good and super-exposed. It starts just right of the lower ramp--look for a bolt beneath a juggy roof which leads to a right-trending ramp. The roof is fun 5.10, and the reachy 5.11- crux is just above the ramp. To continue, aid the huge roof with 3-4 bolts, and belay just above at 2 bolts. The next pitch is pretty hard 5.10 with a lot of old suspect fixed pro (heads, pins, 1/4er's, studs, etc.)--we got off route on the upper half of this pitch onto easier but runout climbing. Either way, the final pitch ascend the beautiful Psycho Slab (5.9, old bolt) up and right to the upper ramp. Rappel T2, or continue with an upper route.
Submitted by: takeme on 2004-05-21
Route ID: 53036