Bring lots of small pro I.E. Rp's small wired stoppers, and small cams. Bring gear as big as #4 frie
One of the most popular routes in Colorado.
Start at the Upper Ramp.
P1-From the small ledge above the Cave Pitch, climb a finger crack a couple feet away from an arete (11a). Climb to a double bolt belay anchor on a slab.
P2-Climb left edge of the slab past a couple bolts and left around an arete and then up a fading crack (5.10).
P3-Up the arete about 50' till a small alcove, then go right to a mantle and then up a sloping ramp (5.9).
P4-Climb a shallow corner that has fixed pins into a chimney. Careful of rope drag on this pitch (11b).
P5-Climb right in a shallow corner (crux, 11b) and then up a fist crack in an overhanging dihedral that faces right (10+). Belay at a sloping shelf.
P6-Traverse west side or arete and then climb up left to the top. P5 and 6 are easily linked.
either descend via east slabls (consult guidebook) or make your way west acroos the saddle between towers 1&2 to the "Vertigo Raps"
Submitted by: admin on 2006-12-02
Route ID: 4935
Proud to add this to my list. Best route to date!!!!!!!!!
WOW! What a beautiful route, beautiful moves, exposure, etc etc! I thought this route would be unobtainable to me but it wasn't at all. I fell twice: once trying to enter the bombay chimney of P4 and once on P5 when the crack initially widens. The chimney fall was due to desperation and grabbing for chalk instead of opening my eyes to the rock and movement. The 5th pitch fall was due to overgripping/overjamming from the exposure and not looking at my feet. Once I fell and looked at the rock, I understood what I was supposed to do. The whole route was a puzzle that needed the proper key/sequence to unlock the mystery. The gear was usually bomber except for the chimney pitch which could use something better than a piton. However the piton DID hold my fall. But still why have it be a mystery as to if/when it will fail. I had double ropes and think that is definitely the way to go. It reduced rope drag, allowed my to clip questionable gear with another rope still clipped below, and provided a quick descent if ever needed. Overall, I am stunned with the route and still can't wrap my head around what happened. I think I will have to do it again one of these days. If you are unsure of the route, do the first pitch an you will get an idea of the sequencey type movements. Bolts at every anchor except at top of P5. and P4 has 3 ropes slung around a huge chock.
This was such a great priviledge to climb up. Sean was needing a partner and I was keen to climb as hard as 5.11b my max comfort ability. It worked out superbly!!!! An aspiring route to lead myself one day!