This climb is the obvious splitter crack and roof just uphill from Rewritten and just left of the Green Spur diheadral. There are a couple of options with this climb. It can be done as two pitches, with a belay at a pin just below the roof (1st pitch, 5.8). Or it can be done as one long pitch with a 70m rope. Rappel off the back in two rappels, or a 200' double rope rappel. You can also join Green Spur or another route and continue climbing to the top of the wall. This is an excellent route, well protected with exciting exposure and thrilling moves!
Submitted by: a_scender on 2004-02-29
Route ID: 49321
Really fun climb, but shorter crux. I had to down climb and read the route and plan my moves. It wasn't as bad as I anticipated. Really fun and beautiful moves. I could have used doubles of 3's and 4's and had to run out the first pitch.
This was a GREAT climb! The crux was a bit burly. I highly recommend combining it to be one pitch. I reached the tree on double 60s without a problem. Just use long draws if you place any gear right under the roof because the drag will be fierce.
I took doubles of 1-4 C4s and used them all. You could even take a 5 if you want a higher piece to start the crux.