This is a wild "adventure route" up lower Redgarden to the Upper Meadow. Climb halfway up the lower ramp to find the start: chalked-up underclings leading out to the right. This is pitch one--sketchy 5.9, followed by a scary clip of a good bolt, and then one very well protected 10+ or 11- move. Belay at 2 bolts on a good rubble strewn ledge.
Pitch 2 is short but extremely wild. Basically, follow the chalk right, up loose holds into the large roof/dihedral, past a good bolt to an unnerving blind 10+ reach around move. Climb 20 ft above the roof to a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 has 2 options: the original line traverse 50 feet right on a narrow ledge, then climbs steep and somewhat runout 5.8 up to the upper meadow. The more direct finish climbs the "Rosy-Toit" variation above the belay (described elsewhere). Having done both, I would say that the 5.8 has better rock, but the Rosy-Toit, at mid-10 with some sketchy rock and gear, is more in keeping with the first 2 pitches, and is also one of the most exposed pitches I've done in the canyon.
From the upper meadow, continue on one of the many routes to the top, or rappel near Vertigo or the Naked Edge.
Submitted by: takeme on 2003-10-15
Route ID: 42874