Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Boulder Area : Eldorado Canyon : Redgarden Wall : Le Toit
Le Toit - 5.11a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
standard rack, including rps; screamers are nice
|
|
Description:
This is a wild "adventure route" up lower Redgarden to the Upper Meadow. Climb halfway up the lower ramp to find the start: chalked-up underclings leading out to the right. This is pitch one--sketchy 5.9, followed by a scary clip of a good bolt, and then one very well protected 10+ or 11- move. Belay at 2 bolts on a good rubble strewn ledge. Pitch 2 is short but extremely wild. Basically, follow the chalk right, up loose holds into the large roof/dihedral, past a good bolt to an unnerving blind 10+ reach around move. Climb 20 ft above the roof to a 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 3 has 2 options: the original line traverse 50 feet right on a narrow ledge, then climbs steep and somewhat runout 5.8 up to the upper meadow. The more direct finish climbs the "Rosy-Toit" variation above the belay (described elsewhere). Having done both, I would say that the 5.8 has better rock, but the Rosy-Toit, at mid-10 with some sketchy rock and gear, is more in keeping with the first 2 pitches, and is also one of the most exposed pitches I've done in the canyon. From the upper meadow, continue on one of the many routes to the top, or rappel near Vertigo or the Naked Edge.
Submitted by: takeme on 2003-10-15
Views: 1209
Route ID: 42874
4 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1995-02-11
(View Climbing Log)
Top five!
I've done this route at least 15 times. I love linking the first two pitches for added value (bring long runners).
Added: 2007-04-11
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty |
Onsight ascent by: ihuang on 2006-10-01
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Did the linkup to Rosy. Fun climb, with typical Eldo thin gear and runouts. Placed maybe 2 TCUs on the whole route, no need to bring big gear.
Added: 2006-10-01
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty |
Red Point ascent by: bryson on 2005-04-08
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-04-08
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty |
Red Point ascent by: gambler on 1974-08-05
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
The huge flake I used at the crux in 1974(5.10 in those days) broke a year or 2 later,making this route harder!
Added: 1974-08-05