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Le Toit - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
standard rack, including rps; screamers are nice
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This is a wild "adventure route" up lower Redgarden to the Upper Meadow. Climb halfway up the lower ramp to find the start: chalked-up underclings leading out to the right. This is pitch one--sketchy 5.9, followed by a scary clip of a good bolt, and then one very well protected 10+ or 11- move. Belay at 2 bolts on a good rubble strewn ledge. Pitch 2 is short but extremely wild. Basically, follow the chalk right, up loose holds into the large roof/dihedral, past a good bolt to an unnerving blind 10+ reach around move. Climb 20 ft above the roof to a 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 3 has 2 options: the original line traverse 50 feet right on a narrow ledge, then climbs steep and somewhat runout 5.8 up to the upper meadow. The more direct finish climbs the "Rosy-Toit" variation above the belay (described elsewhere). Having done both, I would say that the 5.8 has better rock, but the Rosy-Toit, at mid-10 with some sketchy rock and gear, is more in keeping with the first 2 pitches, and is also one of the most exposed pitches I've done in the canyon. From the upper meadow, continue on one of the many routes to the top, or rappel near Vertigo or the Naked Edge.

Submitted by: takeme on 2003-10-15
Views: 623
Route ID: 42874

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1995-02-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Top five!

I've done this route at least 15 times. I love linking the first two pitches for added value (bring long runners).

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ihuang on 2006-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Did the linkup to Rosy. Fun climb, with typical Eldo thin gear and runouts. Placed maybe 2 TCUs on the whole route, no need to bring big gear.

Added: 2006-10-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bryson on 2005-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-04-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gambler on 1974-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

The huge flake I used at the crux in 1974(5.10 in those days) broke a year or 2 later,making this route harder!

Added: 1974-08-05