This is an awesome long route starting from the top of the upper ramp. The crux is a stunning, slightly overhanging offwidth crack, and the rest of the route is characterized by amazing, moderate but very vertical and exposed face climbing. The upper pitches aren't done as much, but they were my favorite part of the route. The route is traditionally 5-7 pitches, although we did it in 3 with a 70 meter rope, with minimal drag.
Start as for Ruper, but break out left at the start of the Rover dihedral, into a thin crack with some pins. Follow the long left-leaning crack system (5.8+ to begin with, easing off to 5.6 or so) all the way to slings at the base of the fearsome looking offwidth. The offwidth is 9+ or 10- and can be protected by sliding a #5 camalot along with you. Alternatively, a #4 can be used to back up the pin, making the crux safe enough, though you'll have to run it out a bit above that. The crux is at a bulge 20 feet up--the fearsome looking roof above is much easier. Incidentally, hardpersons do the route with no big gear--there's a pin, and a couple of sneaky smaller placements. Somewhat risky!
The upper pitches are rated 5.7 R and consist exclusively of face climbing on jugs. Cross the upper ramp, and start from the left edge of the obvious cave. Climb straight up, wander right to a bolt and pin belay in a short corner, then up left around an arete, and finally a long ascending traverse up and right gains the top. We did this as one wonderful 223 foot pitch--outstanding. Descend via Chockstone chimney and other raps, or by the east slabs.
Submitted by: takeme on 2004-01-30
Route ID: 48028