7-8 pitches. Climbs the large traversing dihedral, then up face to left facing corner up to summit. Excellent route. Some bad star-dryvin nails past pitch 3 (climbed it in 96--anyone know if these have been replaced?)
Submitted by: dwise on 2004-01-19
Route ID: 47315
really enjoyed this. Led P1 and the final pitch. We did it in four. The pitch above the 5.10 pitch is a bit scary runout. A fall will definitely clip the ledge on the way down if you haven't clipped either of the first two bolts.
This is an excellent route, probably the best I've done in all of Colorado. The first pitch we took starts in kind of a third class gully a ways left of the arch. More towards TP Tower. Follow this up and then traverse right a ways climbing past a bolted anchor to another bolted anchor near the start of the arch. The next pitch is stellar and climbs most of the arch and a hollow flake to a bolted anchor. From here tiptoe up 5.10 knobs, clipping bolts to a bolted anchor on a ledge. One can (and should) combine this with the next pitch which is probably 5.9+R. The moves are maybe a hair easier than the 5.10 pitch but the bolt spacing may land you on a ledge if you blow it. Eventually you can build a gear anchor in the upper dihedral on a small (foot size) ledge. From here follow the dihedral the rest of the way to a bolted anchor. After that it's kind of choose you're own adventure. We went up a slab just left of the belay that is recognizable by a short jug/flake. The moves are about 5.8+/5.9- with a little bit of sketch factor. From here you wander up to the summit which features great views of Wigwam Creek Valley and the back side of Pikes Peak. All but a few bolts have been replaced or are 1/4" supplemented by a good bolt. Any belays with only 1/4" bolts can be supplemented easily with gear. Truly the best route I've done in Colorado, maybe anywhere.