satisfactory to slim; great where you need it. expect 3 pieces on some pitches
700 feet: pitch 1-5.0; pitch 2-5.2; pitch 3-5.3; pitch 4-5.4; pitch 5-5.5 pitch 6-5.5; Finish with a scramble. Cave finish 5.6; Read your guidebook and scout it form the bottom. Don't get too overextened, but have fun on the runouts.
An Adirondak classic, very recommended in the fall.
Added by jonathanjcooke:
Pitch 1. Up 4th class slabs to the base of a huge left-facing arch (do not follow the arch unless you want to be in 5.7 run-out city).
Pitch 2. Up over a bulge to the right of the arch, friction to an overlap. Aim for a crack in a left-facing corner. Belay at twin cracks at an overlap.
Pitch 3. Up the twin cracks to easy slabs. Head up and right, passing a small tree to the base of a 25' black wall. Belay at a small birch at its base.
Pitch 4. Up the short vertical wall. Belay at a twisted tree on a huge ledge.
Pitch 5. Head right around the headwall and up slabs. Belay at a tree.
Pitch 6. Up easy slabs past a fold to the top.
rap down gulley to left
Submitted by: estwing on 2004-06-13
Last Modified: 2007-02-09
Route ID: 4027
The longest route I had climbed. Definitely expect runouts on easier terrain, but good pro can be found at all the tricky spots. P3 is great, and may be the best 5.5 in NY (Sorry, Gunks). Also, the route description above is off - follow the guidebook and you will enjoy the route more.
I had little experience with multipitch before doing this and it made it that much more exciting. Definitely bring the book and don't get too lost. It ended up being a bit of a hassle on a few occasions and led to some 5.7-5.8 climbing, but I think that added to it. almost all the pitches should have a safety rating of PG, but runout is never in places of worry. not many places to bail so it's not the best if the weather is questionable. If there is a good descent option, we didn't find it. It was pretty sketchy in the dark.
Great route, beautiful views. We had no clue where we were going - just went up and wandered. It was all fairly easy, a little runout in places - but on easy terrain. With a 60m rope we did it in 5 pitches - sort of randomly picked intermediate belays (mostly, because we were wandering). Plenty of options on this one.