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Regular Route - 5.5 popular

Average Rating = 4.55/5 Average Rating : 4.55 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (53)
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Rock (Trad)
6
satisfactory to slim; great where you need it. expect 3 pieces on some pitches
700
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.85/5
  Rock Quality 4.31/5
  Scenery 4.54/5
  Fun Factor 4.54/5

Description:

700 feet: pitch 1-5.0; pitch 2-5.2; pitch 3-5.3; pitch 4-5.4; pitch 5-5.5 pitch 6-5.5; Finish with a scramble. Cave finish 5.6; Read your guidebook and scout it form the bottom. Don't get too overextened, but have fun on the runouts. An Adirondak classic, very recommended in the fall. Added by jonathanjcooke: Pitch 1. Up 4th class slabs to the base of a huge left-facing arch (do not follow the arch unless you want to be in 5.7 run-out city). Pitch 2. Up over a bulge to the right of the arch, friction to an overlap. Aim for a crack in a left-facing corner. Belay at twin cracks at an overlap. Pitch 3. Up the twin cracks to easy slabs. Head up and right, passing a small tree to the base of a 25' black wall. Belay at a small birch at its base. Pitch 4. Up the short vertical wall. Belay at a twisted tree on a huge ledge. Pitch 5. Head right around the headwall and up slabs. Belay at a tree. Pitch 6. Up easy slabs past a fold to the top.

Descent Options:

rap down gulley to left

Submitted by: estwing on 2004-06-13
Last Modified: 2007-02-09
Views: 3086
Route ID: 4027

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53 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Bulletproof2000 on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Oops!

climbed up the corner to the ledge, a lot harder for my second.
second oops, took the North Gully which was a complete disaster.

Added: 2012-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: erock72 on 2012-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2012-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: crw5074 on 2012-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A great, long route.

The longest route I had climbed. Definitely expect runouts on easier terrain, but good pro can be found at all the tricky spots. P3 is great, and may be the best 5.5 in NY (Sorry, Gunks). Also, the route description above is off - follow the guidebook and you will enjoy the route more.

Added: 2012-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bmyers427 on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great First Long Route

I had little experience with multipitch before doing this and it made it that much more exciting. Definitely bring the book and don't get too lost. It ended up being a bit of a hassle on a few occasions and led to some 5.7-5.8 climbing, but I think that added to it. almost all the pitches should have a safety rating of PG, but runout is never in places of worry. not many places to bail so it's not the best if the weather is questionable. If there is a good descent option, we didn't find it. It was pretty sketchy in the dark.

Added: 2012-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: losinghand on 2011-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun route, totally wandered

Great route, beautiful views. We had no clue where we were going - just went up and wandered. It was all fairly easy, a little runout in places - but on easy terrain. With a 60m rope we did it in 5 pitches - sort of randomly picked intermediate belays (mostly, because we were wandering). Plenty of options on this one.

Added: 2011-06-22

... Read all 53 ascent notes