Skip to Content

The Old Route - 5.7

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
standard gunks rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Toward the south end of the cliff. This is the oldest climb in the gunks, with a first ascent in 1935. Look for a large, gray, lichen covered right facing corner under the "pie in the sky " feature at the top of the cliff. Climb P1 (5.5 most of the way, with a 5.7 move into the v slot), to a broken ledge with a ton a loose rock, move left then transition into the v slot. Move up V slot and at the top make an airy traverse right and up to a small ledge to belay. P2 is up a couple of squeeze chimneys with decent gear. Make your way to the top of the cliff, following least path of resistance. Very dirty P2.

Descent Options:

none, you are at top of the cliff

Submitted by: gblauer on 2014-06-23
Views: 191
Route ID: 115184

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2014-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars worth doing once

Dirty, lichen filled corner leads to a fun, airy traverse up more lichen. P2 is a totally mess; dirty and many bushes to climb around. GT ledge is pretty bad at the base of this climb.

Added: 2014-06-23