Climbs most of Vanilla Sky (bolts 1-5). Instead of pulling the roof at bolt 5, continue right-traversing on Rock-About a short span and clip this extension's roof bolt. Pull the roof to anchors.
This is a route extension for now, but was really the top bolt and anchors for an up-route. Then Russell saw the variation. Then we worked the uproute and broke holds, making it HARD. Doable but not necessarily by us.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-11-29
Route ID: 113031
Russell found a great extension when I half-bolted a basic uproute. Despite all the similar style variations I designed at Monster Rock, I just sunk the three bolts since I was sinking bolts elsewhere.
The grade might be soft 12a or possibly 11d, but the route it reminds me most of is the 12a Fear Insanity variation at Mrock. This one has a shorter easier approach, more moves through the crux (roughly four), but the moves are easier than Fear Insanity. On the other hand, Fear Insanity is a stout 5.12a, probably harder than Yertle.