Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Awesome Roof Wall : Vanilla Sky
Vanilla Sky - 5.11a
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts (3 are roof permadraws) and anchors
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Description:
Start on top of the pointy boulder near the face under the roof. Clip bolt 1 from there and cross onto the face, up to another bolt and a mind dihedral. Traverse right and up on three roof permadraws. Pull the roof.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-07-30
Last Modified: 2012-11-29
Views: 211
Route ID: 112045
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Excellent, steep, balanced throughout
Great steep jughaul with a nice headgame over the last bolt. Way harder than Prototype (10c), so I think EQ is low thinking 10c-d. Factoring in the rest, it's a really short route, but the pump builds fast. I was just on Blowing Smoke (11a) and can see this route is comparable.
Added: 2012-11-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
short, fun
climbed end of day. felt 10c/d.
Added: 2012-09-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
some traversing exposure
nice natural line that tops out where the roof meets the vertical wall. My guess after climbing it was 5.10d-11a. Mild power, footwork, core and arms.
Added: 2012-09-10





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