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Dinner with Dracula - 5.12a

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Mircea Popescu, Tommy Blackwell
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
4 bolts (One is a permadraw on Rock-About traverse.)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Crux clips on both low bolts make up the PG13. Help us tighten up the grade, which is either 11d or 12a.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-24
Views: 226
Route ID: 112620

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: ericq99 on 2014-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

not 12a tho at least with a reach. Felt 11+ on the flash. Hand jam rest in middle of route gets the pump meter back to zero before the top

Added: 2014-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Dinner with Dracula

Powerful start to an endurance finish. Crux is clipping #2 unless you extend it. I really like the flow of the bottom if you stick clip 2 and avoid 1 entirely.

Soft 12a, I think the bottom is too powerful for 11d.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars step at the outset

A very nice line with some tough thin moves going past #2 to the horizontal crack above #3. A good rest is had before the finish.

As bolted, the protection requires a crux clip at #2. To eliminate the crux clip here, you can use a double quick draw combination or a 24 inch runner hung off #2. This permits the lead climber to clip the protection and head on to the horizontal crack system above #3 instead of stopping at the curving left two-finger pocket left of #2.


First run was 2012/10/28: I hung all over it and didn't much like it. Glad I got back on it today and found its flow for me.

Added: 2012-10-28