Skip to Content

Vanilla Sky - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts (3 are roof permadraws) and anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Start on top of the pointy boulder near the face under the roof. Clip bolt 1 from there and cross onto the face, up to another bolt and a mind dihedral. Traverse right and up on three roof permadraws. Pull the roof.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-07-30
Last Modified: 2012-11-29
Views: 377
Route ID: 112045

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent, steep, balanced throughout

Great steep jughaul with a nice headgame over the last bolt. Way harder than Prototype (10c), so I think EQ is low thinking 10c-d. Factoring in the rest, it's a really short route, but the pump builds fast. I was just on Blowing Smoke (11a) and can see this route is comparable.

Added: 2012-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars short, fun

climbed end of day. felt 10c/d.

Added: 2012-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars some traversing exposure

nice natural line that tops out where the roof meets the vertical wall. My guess after climbing it was 5.10d-11a. Mild power, footwork, core and arms.

Added: 2012-09-10