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extension: View From Under The Bus - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Russel Mayes, Adam Mitchell, John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 bolts (4 are permadraws), chain anchors (for now)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Climbs most of Vanilla Sky (bolts 1-5). Instead of pulling the roof at bolt 5, continue right-traversing on Rock-About a short span and clip this extension's roof bolt. Pull the roof to anchors. This is a route extension for now, but was really the top bolt and anchors for an up-route. Then Russell saw the variation. Then we worked the uproute and broke holds, making it HARD. Doable but not necessarily by us.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-11-29
Views: 277
Route ID: 113031

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-11-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars best compared to Fear Insanity

Russell found a great extension when I half-bolted a basic uproute. Despite all the similar style variations I designed at Monster Rock, I just sunk the three bolts since I was sinking bolts elsewhere.

The grade might be soft 12a or possibly 11d, but the route it reminds me most of is the 12a Fear Insanity variation at Mrock. This one has a shorter easier approach, more moves through the crux (roughly four), but the moves are easier than Fear Insanity. On the other hand, Fear Insanity is a stout 5.12a, probably harder than Yertle.

Added: 2012-11-29