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War on Choss - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
5 bolts, one with real long permadraw. sport anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

A temporary permadraw hangs over the worst part of the wall's choss band for now. It will either be replaced with a cable draw or I will find a lower bolt location in questionable rock, maybe use a glue-in. The grade assumes some tricky beta. I am not crazy about the crowded low bolts, but bolt 2 is rightly placed; can not be eliminated due to sketchy climbing to bolt 3. Bolt 3 is rightly placed, as high as possible to reduce the runout to the long permadraws. So cosmetically those two would always be jammed together. That leaves an option of removing/patching bolt 1, but that forces the route to be stick clipped. IDK. --Hogge

Submitted by: Hogge on 2014-02-14
Last Modified: 2014-04-23
Views: 124
Route ID: 114800

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cw1242 on 2014-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome addition to the area

Nice work on this one John. Got on it today and it was so fun I had to do it twice. This route flowed really well for me. The crux seemed to be at the bottom in figuring out the beta for moving up to the choss band. Speaking of choss - we had a few small patches of rock break off but for the most part a huge amount of work was done on this to clean it thoroughly. For the anchors I ended up clipping both with my right hand after securing a solid knee bar and finding a decent left hand. The position of being totally sideways while clipping meant for an exciting yet secure clip.

Don't let the appearance of choss lead you to skip this one. Hop on it and fight the good fight. It's officially taken Rattled's place as my favorite route on this wall.

Added: 2014-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Hogge on 2014-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The war is over!

Trick beta for 11b (see spoilers below).

Development notes:CTM's routes committee was understandably wary of the big choss band; this was the worst spot compared to neighboring routes. I promised to put many laps on this route before bolting, over a year or more. It shed some baseball sized rock but nothing major and it seemed to be solid.

Beta:work up and right to the real positive little ledge on the neighboring route. Double knee bar is possible in the cave area, but it's sharp; wear jeans. The tricky beta is the anchor clip: use a lefthand jug just over roof to work right handto a jug block sidepull inside the last cave area. set a right kneebar with knee against your right fist. Or if you are wearing jeans, there might be a kneebar on rock. left hand clips the anchors.

Added: 2014-04-23