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variation: Let Them Not Eat Flake - 5.11a

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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unknown
Rock (Sport)
G
1
clip all bolts of 8 Flake
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

This variation is an eliminate, useful if you're putting up 8 Flake for the 1,000th time. Keep hands strictly right of and below the major flake/crack jughaul system of "8 Flake." To make the clips, you'll be using holds inches away from it. The lower of two ledges below and right of bolt #3 is "on route", whereas the upper isn't. The route thins out after bolt #5 but it goes, all the way to the anchors, without using the crack. See "Some Flake" for an easier version.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2011-09-20
Views: 306
Route ID: 109930

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2011-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars tricky; finally got it

The crux move wasn't easy to solve. Beta spoiler. Big reach to a hidden pocket; and while hidden, it's below and right of bad sucker pocket. The footwork was tricky. Right foot went way high, just under a good right-hand sidepull crimp. The right hand then goes to a crescent sidepull/pinch, rock on a littel to reach the hidden pocket. Snatch the good stuff above it.

Added: 2011-09-20