Gear : Reviews
Reviews by forkliftdaddy (107)
Hirundos Rock Climbing Harness (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.33/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Fixed
U G L Y, you ain't got no alibi...
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2011-06-30
This harness is ugly, but it is also comfortable and light. It makes a great gym harness. That's all I use it for. I got it for free. Otherwise I would never use it. The color is far too obnoxious.
Grigri 2 Belay Device
Average Rating : 4.75/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Da bomb
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2011-06-20
Great device. Great manufacturer. Catches your big whip and then lowers you like a champ.
Eddy Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.25/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Great to borrow...
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2011-06-20
...tough to buy. This device works great. The only problem with it is the price. Now that the Gri Gri 2 is here, however, that price is a big hurdle to jump over.
FS Mini Biner Wiregate Carabiner
Average Rating : 2.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Nice colors, but too small.
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2010-12-15
I like the Nano form Camp, but this biner is too small for me. Makes a nice shoe/bail biner though.
Viper Climbing Shoe - Unisex (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.67/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Slippers
Took a while, but I like it.
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2009-11-04
I expected these to fit and perform like the Baracudas I liked when i bought my Vipers. They didn't. I didn't like the fit and they were a battle to get on. Eventually, however, they molded to my feet and I got used to getting them on. Now I really like these shoes for gym bouldering. They fit well enough to use small feet and heel hook pretty dang well for a slipper. The cushion in the heel is nice as well. Good shoe, but it took me a while to be convinced.
Transformer Boulderpad (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Crash Pads
Best pad ever
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2009-04-21
Love my pad. Only complaint is that Misty has stopped making it. This pad is thick and stiff enough for highballin, but not so stiff you can't work a short burly problem. It is about as big as Misty's Magnum, but doesn't wear out the padding by folding the closed cell foam. The anti-void straps work well, and the circuit pad this is useful once in a while. The construction is frickin' bombproof. I've seen folks use the separated pads as camping gear, but that seems like overkill.
Master Cam (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 3.36/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Hit and miss
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2009-04-02
Eh. Like the design, sorta, but they make more compromises than I like. The cam lobes on the smallest sizes are too thin. I'd like more contact with the rock. The wires run parallel to the cable stem, connecting the Kevlar cables to the trigger bars (and mimicking the Aliens' sheath), are a poor design choice for horizontals. A hard fall onto a horizontal placement will kink one of those cables. Metolius manufacturing is spot on, of course. Things seem rugged, but I'll stick to my TCUs, Aliens and C3s for the most part. Kinda like the 0 and 00 sizes, but these aren't that good for funky placements. Lots of those in NC quartzite. Bigger sizes look good, but I've got Friends and Camalots for those.
OZ WiregateCarabiner (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 2.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Holy crap, that's skinny!
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-08-27
This biner is too small for my taste, too thin. I'd never use it on the rope end, but it would be a nice gear side biner. That said, I wouldn't want to clip a bolt with it. I think the hanger would chew it up in a hurry.
Vision V Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro
Not quite the Visions, but a better heel.
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-08-27
These shoes aren't quite as good of a fit for me as my Visions, but the heel is a hair more aggressive and hooks more securely. Construction seems pretty good, as well.
Camp Four (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.80/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes
Great fit and solid construction
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-08-27
I bought these shoes for a trip to Squamish and they worked great. The fit and finish is perfect, the tread good for hiking, and the manufacturing is solid throughout. My only complaint is that they don't climb well. The heel is ugly, but proves supportive.
Scarpa Vision (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.70/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Great face shoe, poor heel hooker
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-04-28
Narrow shoe that loosens up after a while. Although they started out too painful to wear for more than one route, by the time they needed a resole, my Visions were big enough to climb all day in. They fit my foot great. My only complaints would be that the rubber isn't Stealth -- the resole will fix that -- and that I can't pull super hard with the heel. I find it good enough for most climbing, however.
Helium (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Straight Gates and Regular D's
Good fer yer nutz.
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-04-28
These little 'biners are lightweight and good for rack nuts or clipping slings to gear, but they are not multi-purpose. I find them too thin to clip the rope with them.
Equalizer (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Crash Pads
Great pad!
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2008-01-04
Big and beefy, but light. This pad rocks. The anti-void straps effectively turn the two pads into one. And the ability to split the two apart works great for traverses. You can even tie the two together endwise to drag. But landing on a pad from low can be pretty rough as the pad is stiff.
Quickwire (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Better than Hotwire, but discontinued
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2007-12-12
Stronger than Hotwire with a nice rope-bearing surface. Otherwise very similar. Great full size wiregate. Good for wider nylon slings and webbing. Good for rope end of Petzl dogbones (sport draw runners). Good luck finding them, however.
Rockcentric Hexes
Average Rating : 4.25/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc
Love the shape. Hate the sling.
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2007-10-10
The shape of these chocks is outstanding. They work great like stoppers and cam like champs. I can't stand the dyneema sling, however.
Camalot C3 (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.38/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
The Smaller, The Better
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2007-09-13
The fit and finish on the C3s is outstanding, and the trigger wire/cam spring solution is a very effective rethinking of the cam width problem. Nonetheless, I didn't think C3s would be of much use until a friend recommended that I check out the 000. I did and was impressed. Smaller than the 00 TCU, it is confidence inspiring in hard rock with a lot of rope in the system. Recently, I used it, a 00, and a 0 C3 on new routes on UT quartzite. The ranges on these cams fall between those of the comparable Zeros and TCUs. Outstanding gear. Recently took a 15 footer on a 0 size C3 at Red Rocks. It held great.
Cirque Pro Approach Shoe - Womens
Average Rating : 2.91/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes
Poor durability ruins shoe
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2007-09-05
The seams on mine blew out within two weeks of purchase. I will return them. Insoles are total crap, too. But the fits and rubber are great.
Highlander (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.33/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Crash Pads
Super construction, super company
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2007-07-30
Got my Highlander several years ago. It doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, but I used it off and on for days and/or weekends. This year the foam was pretty much shot, especially at the fold, but the pad shell was still in great shape. So I contacted Misty to purchase some replacement foam, letting me pick it up in Boone -- no shipping charges. Good pad with great construction.
Soloist
popular
Average Rating : 4.89/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-08-31
I'm pretty dang pleased with my Soloist. Using it is a lot of work, but then again I like climbing alone. Also, be warned that it makes a lousy rappel device -- I scared the crap out of myself rapping on it. It chattered and the sheath of my rope bunched up underneath it. Now I just carry a rap device with me. I prefer using hand tied webbing as my shoulder harness and connect it with a Petzl Omni Screw-Lock biner -- 20kN when loaded three ways!
The Bottle Belt (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Hard Grit
Average Rating : 4.83/5
In: Gear: Archive
Barracuda
Average Rating : 4.83/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-05-03
So far so good. I sized my Barracudas so that in when my foot is not on the rock, the fit is very comfortable. As soon as I place foot to rock, however, my toes fill the toebox and the fit is tight. I think this is related to the downturned nature of the shoe, and it makes them great shoes for standing on my feet.
ATC Guide Autobloc Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.60/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-04-10
This will definitely replace my Reverso for multipitch days. Great device. It is heavy, however.
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-03-30
PROS: Well made. Nicely sized. Comprehensive. Well organized. Nice photos. Good topos. Funny to read.
CONS: No R or X ratings.
Still a 5.
CONS: No R or X ratings.
Still a 5.
Anodized Rockcentrics Set (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Hex, tricams, etc
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-03-21
The shape of the Rockcentrics is primo, the best of any hex-shaped chock. But the floppy webbing makes these fiddly to place at times, especially when a wired hex (or one strung with stiffer cord) would allow a quick overhead placement. I've been testing one Rockcentric for a while now, but this past week I got sick of messing with it. I'm going back to my BD Wired Hexcentric for that size.
Express
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Bags and Haul Bags
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-02-17
This is a good and very tough crag pack. I stash a moderately-sized trad rack, a helmet, shoes, a rope, food, water, a light shell, and my harness inside it. In wintertime, I manage to carry a belay parka and gloves, but must hang my helmet and shoes -- pity the fool behind me -- off the outside. If I'm toting big gear, it has to hang off, also. I have the Express model, but I wish I had the next size down because the straps are pretty thin for the pack when it's fully loaded. I try not to overpack. The hip strap is not very useful for me. For someone shorter it might work better. I am just under 6 ft. Small pocket in the lid is great for wallet, keys, food, GU, etc.
Pros: Toughest crag pack ever. Stands on it's own. Waterproof. Simple (i.e. no whing-dings to get caught on the rhodos).
Cons: Suspension is very basic with relatively thin shoulder straps. Web belt may not prove useful for taller folks.
Pros: Toughest crag pack ever. Stands on it's own. Waterproof. Simple (i.e. no whing-dings to get caught on the rhodos).
Cons: Suspension is very basic with relatively thin shoulder straps. Web belt may not prove useful for taller folks.
Hotwire Wiregate Carabiner (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.31/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-02-15
Great all around biner. I use them for sport, but would use them for trad if I wasn't addicted to Neutrinos.
Shield Wirelock
Average Rating : 3.91/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-02-15
This bener has a cool shape and neat gate, but is only good with very narrow slings. Also the rope-bearing surface is too small for my taste. I use my one Wirelock as a match for a locker in my anchors. That's it.
Cadillac (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.24/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-02-07
I bought the Cadillac to replace another Misty Harness with 6 gear-loops and double buckles. But the Cadillac was too much for me. I'd rather use a lighter, less padded harness for most things. So I've turned my Cadillac into a swami-only affair, and it works great (for chimneys, off widths, squeezes, etc.) that way.
Pros: Good for hanging, old skool look, and lots racking room
Cons: Hot, bulky, and heavy
Pros: Good for hanging, old skool look, and lots racking room
Cons: Hot, bulky, and heavy
Shock Absorber Dyneema 16mm
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Shock Load Limiters
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2006-01-11
Activates at a higher force than a screamer, not as strong when fully ripped, tends to slip through the sheath is weighted with body weight. Light though. Clear shell is kinda nifty. Won't replace my screamers.
Tite-Grip
popular
Average Rating : 3.75/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-10-03
So far, so good. I've been using this for the past couple weeks in hopes of reducing the amount of chalk I use. I hate chalky routes and figure that if I can reduce the amount of chalk I add to a route, I should. Tite Grip does seem to reduce the amount my hands sweat and provides a nice base layer for my day. I get distressed enough, however, my hands will still sweat through and grease of the crux reallyu nicely. I seem to need two applications in a day.
Adjama Mountaineering Harness (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.29/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-08-19
Excellent harness. Very light, very comfortable. I just switched from a BD Focus. I like the gear loops, both stiff and soft. The Adjama worked well on a long Sierras alpine trip (except the day I forgot it). Doesn't hold quite as much gear as the Focus did, but still great.
JC Wiregates
Average Rating : 4.40/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-07-26
Nice rope-bearing surface, but weak. Open gate strength is only 7 kN. Stopped using them.
Mecury Mitt (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-07-19
Warmest mitt I've ever worn. Too warm for any exertion, too warm for anything but the coldest days. Great for belays on cold ice pitches.
Crux Knicker (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.67/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-07-19
Great knicker with a slim fit and some stretch, but not quite enough. I burst the seam in the seat. Also, these can get a funky odor pretty quickly.
Tikka
Average Rating : 4.20/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-07-11
Great light. I only have one complaint. My glasses catch a bit of light from it. This is VERY distracting for trail running. Otherwise it rocks.
Oxygen Clean-Lock - Straight gate (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.25/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Straight Gates and Regular D's
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-06-12
Super strong, nice clipping 'biner with a fat rope-bearing surface. Not as snag free as keylock designs. Bent gate is not very bent, but that's not a big deal, possibly even a good thing. These are a bit heavy for my trad rack, but nice for the sport draws. Rated at 10kN open gate. So whip away!
Guide Tennie (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.40/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-06-08
Great rubber and very good shoe. It smears like crazy, but doesn't edge very well. It could use more arch support, but strikes a nice balance between sensitivity and cushioning. I got a pair to scramble up Laurel Mountain (near Bishop). They worked great. Weekend before last my buddy broke his toe hiking in sandals at the Obed. So I loaned him one Guide Tennie and he climbed with one Muira and one GT for two days. He even redpointed a couple 11As.
Ceres 70 liter (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-06-03
Took this up Kautz Galcier on Rainier. Worked great. Hauled the big load, then cinched it down for the summit push. Rides great on me. Great fit. Great quality.
Finesse
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-06-03
Beefy, but great. I keep waiting for mine to fall apart, forcing me to change packs, but nothing doing. No other packs has hauled the trad rack, rope, food, shoes, water and other crap with such aplomb. Fits me great. Would love to have another.
Black Prophet
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
Heavy, but sinks like a battleship when it hits the ice. Also a knuckle-basher, but otherwise good.
Shrike (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.50/5
In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Axes and Hammers
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
Fine tool. Not high end. Use 'em and you're gonna bash your knuckles some.
Rambocomp Evo 2 (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.75/5
In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Crampons
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
I use an older model RamboComp for steep ice. They're great for it, unless you have to lug them very far. They are heavy compared to some other models. Rea-facing points are nice for hooking.
Turbo Ice screw (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Ice Protection
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
Good screw, but takes too long to place when you're pumping out.
Sheriff
Average Rating : 3.94/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
Like an ATC, but the metal retainer is more durable. Very good device.
ATC Belay/Rappel Device (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.31/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-13
The standard. Doesn't seem as great as it once did, but still good.
The Rock Warrior's Way (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.75/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-09
Excellent book for increasing mental fitness. Arno can be a bit fruity, at times, and tends to tell a lot of personal stories, but is almost always spot on.
Training for Climbing (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-09
Great book for building physical power, for honing your sport climbing fitness. Hörst ignores endurance, alpine climbing, etc. He seems to have strictly a cragging mentality.
SELECTED CLIMBS IN NORTH CAROLINA (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: forkliftdaddy, 2005-05-09
This guide has great history and beautiful photograps, but no approaches are detailed. Select guides are problematic, of course. Some good routes were left out. I mean, why aren't ALL of MY favorites in here? Oh well, so it goes. There are some mistakes, few are serious. There's no second bolt on Nuclear Crayon. In fact it's a bit run out there.
