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Dream Symphony - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Draws, Trad rack (especially small). Probably a 50m rope would be fine. If you plan to rap the route bring a 50m tag/zip line.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This route combines the best of two routes, Dream and Unfinished Symphony. It starts with 3 pitches of runout slab climbing. (3 bolts on the first 10c, 35 meter pitch) The second pitch goes up and left and follows a small thin left arching crack/flake. (it may be difficult to see this arch but it is on the slab above, approx 15m above and 15m left of the belay, there is a bolt line directly right of the arch and your route) You can place small trad pro in a couple places near the bottom of this arch and there is a bolt near the top. The crux on these first three pitches is the beginning of the 3rd pitch. You are making 10d slab (strictly friction) moves up and directly left of the belay and your only protection is at the belay. The 4th pitch traverses left to the 12" cedar tree in the large corner that you will continue up for 2 pitches. At the beginning of this 4th traversing pitch you will mount a steep hump. If you attempt to mount this hump where it looks like it might be possible to make free moves (the hump gets steeper and longer as you move left) you will find that the protection is significantly below you when making the moves. There is a piton and you can also place a cam for this protection but they are below the difficult moves. We went left about 10 meters to an old bolt and hanger with an old sling attached and made an A0 move to mount this hump. No reference in the book is made to this A0 move so we may have cheated the climb. The next 2 pitches are in an excellent corner and either protected by Bolts (because the corner will not accept pro) or Trad Pro. There are pin scars in the very thin sections of this corner which allow upward progress. Where bolts are the only protection in the corner, be prepared to make some 5.10 moves significantly above the bolts. The last pitch is 11b friction and well protected so one can use the bolts for upward progress if necessary (you will, however, need to be able to make a couple free difficult friction moves between the bolts as this isn't as closly bolted as an aid ladder)

Descent Options:

Rap off with 2 ropes or walk off

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2009-08-20
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 830
Route ID: 101387

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mthornton on 1996-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great route

done long ago... super exciting & sustained.

Added: 2010-04-06