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Over The Rainbow - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
mostly bolted, but a single set of cams to a #2 camalot should be broght along
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

A recent addition to the Apron, and a memorial route for John Millar and Guy Edwards. Route description courtesy of Jer Frimer. Begin as for Diedre: Pad up the 5.4 slab to horizontal cracks and a tree. Banana Peel goes straight right from here. Diedre goes straight up then eventually left. Sparrow steps right 5m then trends right on slab. P1 (5.9) Over the Rainbow steps 3m right then goes straight up on a 5.9 slab, passing 3 or 4 bolts to a 2-bolt belay. P2 (5.8) Climbs a short bit of 5.8 slab then rambles up 5.4 cracks, passing a small roof on the right, to reach a 2-bolt belay above. P3 (5.9) Sustained 5.8 slab (10m right of the Sickle corner) past 4 or 5 bolts reaches a small roof (touching the route Sickle). Above, move right to a bolt and do a few 5.9 moves to reach Sickle Ledge (tree belay) P4 (5.9) Over the Rainbow pitch. Climb a 5.7 slab past 2 bolts to the bottom right tail of a rainbow shaped "flake arch". Undercling to its apex and clip a bolt above. Then undercling down to its lower left tail, step left onto a slab, and pad (5.9) past the arch and another 4 bolts to a 2-bolt belay. A direct variant, climbing straight through the apex of the arch goes at 5.10b (FFA Jer Frimer). {Ridiculously softly graded, more like 5.9} P5 (5.9) Surprisingly steep slab climbing for 5.9 (good small edges) past 4 or 5 bolts leads to a 2-bolt belay. P6 (5.6) Easier slab climbing trends rightward to join the top of Sparrow and Banana Peal to reach Broadway.

Submitted by: dru on 2005-10-31
Views: 2105
Route ID: 50368

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: TNJed on 2012-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Afternoon climb

fun clean slab climbing

Added: 2012-07-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: calvinclimb on 2011-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome!

More fun if you do the 5.10a variation.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dzunit on 2011-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good slab

Fun climbing, nice long slab. The rainbow pitch is very nice.

Added: 2011-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ajstotts on 2010-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb I think that there is a couple moves of 5.10.

Climbed it yesterday and found it great. The cool weather here made the friction amazing. Used 8 draws and cams to 2". Exiting the rainbow was a 5.9 move but the 2 after were close to 5.10, in my opinion. A nice morning out.

Added: 2010-08-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: maverick78 on 2007-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome, a must do

I got p2 and p4. The whole thing is amazingly good climbing. P4 is fantastic and well protected. I did the exit to the right of the bolt at the top of the rainbow arch and found it to be not bad, the 10b grade for this variation is soft. I would call it 5.10a as the moves are pretty vertical on small feet.

You will have you fun card punch if you get p4 or p5.

Added: 2007-07-05

... Read all 8 ascent notes