climb a route that gets you above Broadway ledge on the Apron (Rock On will do this). Follow trails up towards the Pan Wall. Don't follow the trail off to the left. Follow the trail to a small clearing with a birch tree, just before the Pan wall. Up the blocky roof, past a bolt, then trend left following the cleanest path (5.9). Up and left again to the base of a groove. Short pitch (3rd cleass). Up the bushy groove, then move right at the top to belay. (mostly easy with some 5.8 moves). Up another bushy groove, then over towards the gully, belay below some nice cracks (mostly low 5th, with some 5.8 moves). Up the cracks, walk along the ledge towards the headwall, then up the corner to the base of the headwall on a great ledge (5.9). Up the cracks to a bolted belay (10c). Traverse left, up and right on the ramp, up and left on the next ramp until you can continue easily straight up (5.8). Scramble to the summit with one more move of 5.8 or go over to Raven's Castle and do a route there.
Submitted by: peas on 2005-10-31
Route ID: 32983
Nice route. My first climb to the top of the Chief. Seconded the 10.c crux pitch, as it is way out of my league for leading. Was a great day 90% in the shade, accessing via Calculus and Memorial Crack. Wonderful climb.
After experiencing the sheer joy of Angel's Crest two weeks prior, I was itching for another long day up the Chief. This proved a worthy follow up.
We approched via Diedre and Boomstick.
Link each of the first pair's of easier pitches to save time. Drag is minimal if protection is well thought out. The 5.9 before the crux is fun, but this is really all about the thin 10c corner crack which serves as the centerpiece of this climb. Bring lots of small pro!