Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : The Apron : The Squamish Buttress
PreviousThe Squamish Buttress - 5.10c popular
Average Rating : 4.15 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 99
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (26)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
trad
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
climb a route that gets you above Broadway ledge on the Apron (Rock On will do this). Follow trails up towards the Pan Wall. Don't follow the trail off to the left. Follow the trail to a small clearing with a birch tree, just before the Pan wall. Up the blocky roof, past a bolt, then trend left following the cleanest path (5.9). Up and left again to the base of a groove. Short pitch (3rd cleass). Up the bushy groove, then move right at the top to belay. (mostly easy with some 5.8 moves). Up another bushy groove, then over towards the gully, belay below some nice cracks (mostly low 5th, with some 5.8 moves). Up the cracks, walk along the ledge towards the headwall, then up the corner to the base of the headwall on a great ledge (5.9). Up the cracks to a bolted belay (10c). Traverse left, up and right on the ramp, up and left on the next ramp until you can continue easily straight up (5.8). Scramble to the summit with one more move of 5.8 or go over to Raven's Castle and do a route there.
Submitted by: peas on 2005-10-31
Views: 778
Route ID: 32983
Most Recent Photos
|
|
|
26 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 26 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
good times
super fun and first really big day. Route choices: Diedre to broomstick then finish with the buttress.
Added: 2009-04-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
A fun day out
My first route to the top of the Chief, I did not lead the crux but maybe another time.
Added: 2008-12-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Quality climbing at the crux
THE PITCH is what it should be called. The rest is just exposed hiking. We only roped up for the 10c. That pitch was great, takes lots of gear and can be climbed several different ways.
Added: 2008-06-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
The Squamish Buttress
Took Diedre and Boomstick Crack to access the forest. Much walking and uneven climbing to a stellar, sustained crux pitch.
Added: 2008-06-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
topping out
easy except for the 10. c pitch. had to follow it.
Added: 2008-06-01
