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St. Vitus Dance - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Rock
4
gear anchors. Large cams in a #2-3.5 camalot are very useful.
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

4ish pitches. From the Apron parking lot, walk back to the FSR and walk up it for ~20m. Take the trail up into the woods for ~10min, keeping left until you reach a small treed alcove. Rope up here and do a full pitch of 4thclass/5.8 tree climbing until you reach baseline ledge (head left off the last ledge before baseline). Start up the beauty fist size crack for pitch one and belay in a small scoop above a bulge(5.9). Switch crack systems and up through a deep groove on pitch two(5.9). belay just below a short roof bulge or head on through it on the righthand crack if you have a 60m rope(don't know if it goes with a 50m)(5.9). Finish up the easy slabs and then to the left with a hand traverse under a bulge(4th/5th). This puts you at the gully below Memorial Ledge or almost right at Karen's Math.

Submitted by: peas on 2005-10-31
Views: 748
Route ID: 27940

17 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 17 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tallnik on 2009-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sick

with A and erica. led 5 pitches when including extension

Added: 2009-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gowser on 2009-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars st vitus dance

st vitus dance

Added: 2009-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jand on 2009-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great climb

easy gear, double #1 and #2 useful but not essential

Added: 2009-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: 8flood8 on 2008-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Was over before i knew it!

flashed every pitch (as a second)

popped my double fist stack cherry on this one.. few chicken wings and of course the lovely hand stacks.

this route EFFING RULES!

Added: 2008-06-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tradrenn on 2008-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good

Fun.

Added: 2008-05-25

... Read all 17 ascent notes