Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : The Apron : Squamish Butt/Face
Squamish Butt/Face - 5.9 popular
Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Sonny Trotter and friends
Rock (Trad)
G
7
Bolt + Gear
|
|
Description:
North face variation of Squamish Buttress
Submitted by: calvinclimb on 2011-10-25
Views: 2672
Route ID: 110119
2 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: SCaveman on 2012-05-27
(View Climbing Log)
A great ending to a long day
We heard about Butt Face (or Butt Lite) from Gripped Magazine and decided to check it out. The first pitch is a series of face moves up to a bolt. It's a bit tricky getting over to the left and up over the crux. It protects well before you have to make those moves. It then carries up onto a ledge and belay station. The next pitch is a very fun overhanging scoop of detached granite. It's only 5.8 but after hours of climbing and the 5.9 pitch it's a bit daunting. I was out of gas by then and looking up at that pitch I as shaking my head. But, I got up it and plugged in a BD#1 (I think) and then pulled over the top. It's easy travelling from there along a ramp to the trees and belay. The last pitch is just following some ramps to the top. It's a fun variation and I'd recommend it if the Buttress is too stiff or you're out of energy.
Added: 2012-07-27
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: calvinclimb on 2011-09-15
(View Climbing Log)
Awesome line!!!
Awesome moderate line that reaches the summit! First went to Buttress's ledge but found that 10c crack intimidating so lowered back down to do Butt/Face. Good exposure at the north face with a chimney at the end. Linked with Calculus Crack (6p), Memroial Crack (1p), and finished with Joe's Dyke (2p).
Added: 2011-10-25