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Squamish Butt/Face - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
G
7
Bolt + Gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

North face variation of Squamish Buttress

Submitted by: calvinclimb on 2011-10-25
Views: 1736
Route ID: 110119

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: SCaveman on 2012-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A great ending to a long day

We heard about Butt Face (or Butt Lite) from Gripped Magazine and decided to check it out. The first pitch is a series of face moves up to a bolt. It's a bit tricky getting over to the left and up over the crux. It protects well before you have to make those moves. It then carries up onto a ledge and belay station. The next pitch is a very fun overhanging scoop of detached granite. It's only 5.8 but after hours of climbing and the 5.9 pitch it's a bit daunting. I was out of gas by then and looking up at that pitch I as shaking my head. But, I got up it and plugged in a BD#1 (I think) and then pulled over the top. It's easy travelling from there along a ramp to the trees and belay. The last pitch is just following some ramps to the top. It's a fun variation and I'd recommend it if the Buttress is too stiff or you're out of energy.

Added: 2012-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: calvinclimb on 2011-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome line!!!

Awesome moderate line that reaches the summit! First went to Buttress's ledge but found that 10c crack intimidating so lowered back down to do Butt/Face. Good exposure at the north face with a chimney at the end. Linked with Calculus Crack (6p), Memroial Crack (1p), and finished with Joe's Dyke (2p).

Added: 2011-10-25