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Glory Road - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
Full rack (sm-lg). Easily protected - wires / tri-cams great. Occasional fixed piton, belay bolt
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Really fun classic four pitch climb. Pitch 1: Great open book finger jam and layback crack (5.6 / 2 fp) to 1 bolt belay ledge. Pitch 2: Traverse right to obvious dihedral topped with overhang(5.7) and face to big ledge. Pitch 3: Easy pitch traversing further right and down to crack up to large belay ledge. Pitch 4: Very fun chimney to summit and 2 bolt belay/rap. Make short single rope 65' rappel to west and hike south and east back around cliff to base.

Submitted by: fritzski on 2003-03-11
Views: 1361
Route ID: 33400

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chief1210 on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool wall

with cory

Added: 2011-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: grippedclimer on 2008-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool bark canyon cool

Fun route, first pitch seemed harder than 5.6.

Added: 2008-03-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2008-03-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Comeback kid

One of my first routes after a 6 week wrist injury layoff. As others have said, stout for the grade. Thin p2 traverse across and down into the chimney/stem section requires a good head b/c you have to forego pro so your second won't take a nosedive. P3 I placed only two pieces in the easy crack near the end--I do not know where one would put reliable gear during the traverse over face and loose blocks. Convoluted walkoff; as you finally come round the formation, stay high against the cliff and avoid the urge to travel downslope and across--it doesn't work!

Added: 2008-03-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: lindajft on 2007-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars wow

beautiful climb
loves pro

Added: 2007-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: scotchie on 2007-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good fun climb. Really long walk-off

Climbed this with Melisssa. She led pitch 1 (hardest in my opinion), and I led pitches 2-4. I loved this route. Sustained, fun climbing, with different skills (crack, face/traverse, and chimney). Gorgeous day with a great view of Weaver's Needle from the summit! Used cams, nuts, and some hexes. Small tricams in pockets protect the traverses. Routefinding on the long descent was the crux!

Edited to add: At start of P3 go straight across the face rather than up and then back down again. It protects well, isn't any harder than the traverse on P2, and is a lot more fun!

Added: 2007-03-27

... Read all 13 ascent notes