This is what I use. YMMV. Belays: All stations are equipped with rap hangers. Draws: 2 D-O-T-S, 14 Quick Draws. 8mm Mammut are always a good choice for slinging "Chicken Lips".
Aliens: Black, Blue, Green, Yellow, Grey, Red, Orange, White
Camalots: Gold (#2)
Wallnuts: #4, #5, #9, #10
Very enjoyable outing. Nicely shaded in the morning when it's warm out! Comes into the sun late in the a.m. To find the route follow the standard approach for Absynthe of Mallet. About 30 feet before the actual start of A of M follow the trail around to the left (clockwise) hugging the base of Sheepshead for a few minutes til forced away by trees (don’t be misled too early). Continue approximately the same distance on the trail until you spot a couple of large-ish cairns. At that point follow trail back in to trees (you will be half-in/half-out of the descent gully) to a flat spot (the one most leftward). You will be at the base of a left-leaning/right-facing dihedral/ramp affair). About 100’ up the face and to the right of you should be a tall finger-like feature with slings at the top. You have arrived.
1)Mixed (bolts and gear) We carried SLCD’s to a #3 Cam-a-lot, but didn’t use anything larger than the gold, though we might have had the opportunity had we felt the need...
Pitch 1: 50m, 5.5+
I led up the first pitch (a left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp). I climbed it in my ACG’s, which, after the first 100’ feet or so, I began to wish I hadn’t. Also went with too few quickdraws... I managed, but was a little nervous what with the greasing of the shoes on the polished rock surface. There is one bolt here on the face protecting the moves just below the belay station. It is on a smallish ledge, which was adequate for three people, if a bit cozy.
Pitch 2: 50m 5.6 Move left to a bolt and follow a weakness (crack), then 7 bolts to another two bolt belay. Note: Original route went up the treed gully to the right (avoid the temptation)
Pitch 3: 50m 5.7+ 12 bolts to a plated face. This pitch is heavily bolted with body-length spacing on most. Trend rightward to surmount 7-8’ high “headwall”. Not as difficult as it looks.
Pitch 4: Straight up plated face to four bolts. Trend rightward (there are holds although it looks like friction from below). I slung a horn by going straight up from the fourth bolt then traversed over to 4’ high wall (easy) protected by a bolt. I had to traverse back over to the horn and remove the sling because the rope drag was not just bad, but nigh impossible. This pitch deposits you on a tremendous ledge. To the right is the chimney/slot exit for Absynthe Of Mallet. We opted to finish on “Too Tough to Die” (5.9)
Pitch 5: 35m 5.9 (“Too Tough to Die” finish). The standard finish is the same as for "Absynthe of Mallet", i.e. the large chimney/slot readily visible from the parking area. Follow bolts up arete. Start slightly right of the belay and traverse through bolts to the left across a ledge to fantastic holds on plates to a friction slab: the arete provides the best/easiest means to surmount.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2006-02-12
Last Modified: 2012-12-10
Route ID: 38669
First pitch fine, although that slab finish to bolts a bit scary. The rest of the climb was a lot of slab, some fun climbing on plates followed by more slab. I am not good on slab so it was an interesting experience. It's a really pretty walk off the top, about 15 minutes back to packs. Then it's about 1 hour back to the trailhead (on rubbery legs). All that slab really tired out my legs. Fun climb. Also...the first pitch can be a bit tricky. I would bring more than a light rack for this pitch. If possible, I would ditch the rack (lower it) and just keep some nuts and a couple of smaller cams for the rest of the climb.