Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead : Ewephoria
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Ewephoria - 5.7 popular
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Rock
Mixed. See Description.
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Description:
This is what I use. YMMV. Belays: All stations are equipped with rap hangers. Draws: 2 D-O-T-S, 14 Quick Draws. 8mm Mammut are always a good choice for slinging "Chicken Lips". Aliens: Black, Blue, Green, Yellow, Grey, Red, Orange, White Camalots: Gold (#2) Wallnuts: #4, #5, #9, #10 Very enjoyable outing. Nicely shaded in the morning when it's warm out! Comes into the sun late in the a.m. To find the route follow the standard approach for Absynthe of Mallet. About 30 feet before the actual start of AofM follow the trail around to the left (clockwise) hugging the base of Sheepshead for a few minutes till forced away by trees (don’t be misled too early). Continue approximately the same distance on the trail until you spot a couple of large-ish cairns. At that point follow trail back in to trees (you will be half-in/half-out of the descent gully) to a flat spot (the one most leftward). You will be at the base of a left-leaning/right-facing Cochise-oid dihedral/ramp affair). About 100’ up the face and to the right of you should be a tall finger-like feature with slings at the top. You have arrived. 1)Mixed (bolts and gear) We carried SLCD’s to a #3 Cam-a-lot, but didn’t use anything larger than the gold, though we might have had the opportunity had we felt the need... Pitch 1: 50m, 5.5+ I led up the first pitch (a left-leaning, right-facing dihedral/ramp). I climbed it in my ACG’s, which, after the first 100’ feet or so, I began to wish I hadn’t. Also went with too few quickdraws... I managed, but was a little nervous what with the greasing of the shoes on the polished rock surface. There is one bolt here on the face protecting the moves just below the belay station. It is on a smallish ledge, which was adequate for three people, if a bit cozy. Pitch 2: 50m 5.6 Move left to a bolt and follow a weakness (crack), then 7 bolts to another two bolt belay. Note: Original route went up the treed gully to the right (avoid the temptation) Pitch 3: 50m 5.7+ 12 bolts to a plated face. This pitch is heavily bolted with body-length spacing on most. Trend rightward to surmount 7-8’ high “headwall”. Not as difficult as it looks. Pitch 4: Straight up plated face to four bolts. Trend rightward (there are holds although it looks like friction from below). I slung a horn by going straight up from the fourth bolt then traversed over to 4’ high wall (easy) protected by a bolt. I had to traverse back over to the horn and remove the sling because the rope drag was not just bad, but nigh impossible. This pitch deposits you on a tremendous ledge. To the right is the chimney/slot exit for Absynthe Of Mallet. We opted to finish on “Too Tough to Die” (5.9) Pitch 5: 35m 5.9 (“Too Tough to Die” finish). The standard finish is the same as for "Absynthe of Mallet", i.e. the large chimney/slot readily visible from the parking area. Follow bolts up arete. Start slightly right of the belay and traverse through bolts to the left across a ledge to fantastic holds on plates to a friction slab: the arete provides the best/easiest means to surmount.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2006-02-12
Views: 941
Route ID: 38669
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29 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 29 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
My first route at Cochise!
I enjoyed this climb. I only lead the third and fifth pitch. For the fifth pitch I finished on Too Tough To Die. That last pitch was Awesome!!
Added: 2009-11-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Steller
Great route.
Gear list: 1 each #1 tcu, 0.5 and 0.75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 each # 1 and 2 camalot and pink tricam. You could bring more in this size range if you want to sew it up.
All pitches were excellent. The 5.9 finish is highly recommended -- very different than the previous pitches, super exposed, and you can look down at most of the route.
Gear list: 1 each #1 tcu, 0.5 and 0.75 camalot, 2.5 friend, 2 each # 1 and 2 camalot and pink tricam. You could bring more in this size range if you want to sew it up.
All pitches were excellent. The 5.9 finish is highly recommended -- very different than the previous pitches, super exposed, and you can look down at most of the route.
Added: 2009-02-16
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun
Great crack at start, fun chickenhead climbing up high.
Added: 2008-08-22
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
good
...
Added: 2008-06-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
good trad/sport mix
summited to a beautiful sunset. fun well-established route and the too tough to die finish seemed to be a great choice.
Added: 2008-02-23
