Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead : Absinthe of Mallet
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Absinthe of Mallet - 5.10a popular
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Rock
Mixed, bolts and gear: medium-small rack with nuts and aliens.
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Description:
This is a great long route. The second and fifth pitches are awesome. Start beneath series of roofs below huge roof traversing to 2 bolt belay. Combine pitches 2,3 for awesome 60m pitch; green alien useful to gain crack above belay. Combine pitches 4,5 by traversing L into dihedral and follow face up chickenheads. Pitch 6 continues up chickenheads, face on easy rock. Look for 2 bolt belay hidden behind large Oak tree in chimney below you to finish in chimney or alt arete finish. Arete is slabby and bit runout but exhilirating , seemed harder than 5.9.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2006-05-23
Views: 631
Route ID: 25375
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20 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 20 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Super Fun (but not a 5.9 LOL)
More serious than peacemaker.
Slab felt difficult but mostly good protection.
Spacing of bolts was at times sporty to say the least.
Tough move out into the crack on pitch two. A bit reachy. That small metolius cam was helpful as pro. (I think someone mentioned using an alien) can't remember the size but it was yellow metolius or smaller.
Last tow bolted pitches were fun.
Download the mountainproject summary of climb it was right on.
Walk off is easy.
Approach to base was 40min.
i had a little trouble locating the first pitch but I went to peacmaker then doubled back and found the corner to the two roofs and saw the first bolt and I knew i was there.
(It was not the obvious route further to the left under the huge crescent roof that travelled over a bolted small roof and followed bolts out to the right. Still don't know what route that was.)
Slab felt difficult but mostly good protection.
Spacing of bolts was at times sporty to say the least.
Tough move out into the crack on pitch two. A bit reachy. That small metolius cam was helpful as pro. (I think someone mentioned using an alien) can't remember the size but it was yellow metolius or smaller.
Last tow bolted pitches were fun.
Download the mountainproject summary of climb it was right on.
Walk off is easy.
Approach to base was 40min.
i had a little trouble locating the first pitch but I went to peacmaker then doubled back and found the corner to the two roofs and saw the first bolt and I knew i was there.
(It was not the obvious route further to the left under the huge crescent roof that travelled over a bolted small roof and followed bolts out to the right. Still don't know what route that was.)
Added: 2009-03-02
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
awesome
this is a classic, glad to see some one has upgraded it to a 10...definite 10 moves on pitch 1 and 3 and 4
Added: 2008-03-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Spicy!
5.9++ harder than Peacemaker. We climbed a bolted alternate 2 pitch finish up the face/slab to the right of the big chimney, well protected and no harder than the rest of the route.
Added: 2008-02-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Toproped last 1.5 pitches
Climbing with Geir and aerili, we setup an anchor and lowered to the end of the rope, then climbed back out (~ 1.5 pitches). Man, this was STIFF. I felt about to fall on each move, yet I didn't. Can't wait to go back and climb it from the bottom.
Added: 2007-07-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
sweeeeet
amazing climb from start to finish.
Added: 2007-01-03
