Mixed, bolts and gear: medium-small rack with nuts and aliens.
This is a great long route. The second and fifth pitches are awesome. Start left of center beneath series of roofs below huge roof traversing to 2 bolt belay. You can combine pitches 2,3 for awesome 60m pitch; green alien useful to gain crack on second pitch from the belay. Combine pitches 4,5 by traversing L into dihedral and follow face up chickenheads. Pitch 6 continues up chickenheads, face on easy rock. Look for 2 bolt belay hidden behind large Oak tree in chimney below you to finish in chimney or alt arete finish. Arete is slabby and bit runout but exhilirating , seemed harder than 5.9.
Best to walk off the back; head down and left on great trail.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2006-05-23
Last Modified: 2009-11-26
Route ID: 25375
With Larry from Los Alamos. My first Cochise climb. Led all the pitches. Second pitch was good. Combined the 3rd-4th pitches with a 60m. The last pitch variation I chose was a bolt line that finishes a 5.10 coming in from the left. Takes the left arete. Airy and fun moves. Not a huge slab or bolt climber and therefore going to be hard to get me to go four or five stars on too many of these Cochise routes. Good intro climb to the area for sure.
More serious than peacemaker. Slab felt difficult but mostly good protection. Spacing of bolts was at times sporty to say the least. Tough move out into the crack on pitch two. A bit reachy. That small metolius cam was helpful as pro. (I think someone mentioned using an alien) can't remember the size but it was yellow metolius or smaller. Last tow bolted pitches were fun. Download the mountainproject summary of climb it was right on. Walk off is easy. Approach to base was 40min. i had a little trouble locating the first pitch but I went to peacmaker then doubled back and found the corner to the two roofs and saw the first bolt and I knew i was there. (It was not the obvious route further to the left under the huge crescent roof that travelled over a bolted small roof and followed bolts out to the right. Still don't know what route that was.)