Mixed pro: Single BD Camalots from .5 to 3" along with a set of nuts, 10 quickdraws and 5 slings
Start lies between Absinthe of Mallet and Ewephoria (somewhat closer to Ewephoria) at the base of a large madrone tree. You can tell when you are at the start by seeing the first 4 bolts of this climb. The first 3 bolts are tightly spaced off the deck no more than 15 feet off the ground. Trend to the right towards a small tree on the face. The fourth bolt lies on the lip of a small, green lichened roof about 40 feet up. Clipping the 4th bolt leads you into a leftward arching crack system that takes great trad protection. Will probably use the rack only on the first pitch, the remaining pitches are almost exclusively bolted. All belays have double bolted Metolius rap hangers. This route faces Northwest so it does not see any sun until late morning (in winter).
walk off the back, down and left on a great trail.
Submitted by: willywilderness on 2006-03-13
Last Modified: 2009-11-26
Route ID: 60814
Wow, what a pitch. hard crux move, followed by a crack (lay it back? climb it straight? Either way, it's a little bit hard). Then you have an amazing slab finish (follow the right most set of bolts up close to the very exposed arete). I was very happy to finish this pitch...tired after climbing all day.
I think that this is listed 5.10- somewhere, but whatever the grade this climb is a lot of fun. Just about every pitch is tough, but there is rarely any sustained difficult climbing without good gear nearby. The final pitch crescendo gets a lot of attention. Found the crux to be low on the first pitch, moving past three closely spaced bolts.
2 Roofs, 2 thin traverse crux sections, crack climbing, slab, and chickenheads make for interesting, varied climbing. This is bolted at the 2 cruxes (on p1/p2), so it is ideal for a 5.10 sport / 5.7 trad climber. Oh, and Cochise has such a beautiful view!