To the left of Pillar of Society.
Start up on dirty dikes pulling through a balancy 5.10 move to the first bolt. Move right and make a powerfull .12bish mantle move to a couple small pinches to a welcomed second clip. Save some juice because you have to now make a huge mantle/dyno to a big rail and another bolt. Now make your way up and right on some easy but dirty dikes about 25ft to the next bolt. Continue up to a crack that goes over a small roof/bulge with some gear to the last bolt. From here you have to make some thin sloaping moves a fair distance above your last bolt to the anchors. This is a spicy rotue.
Rap or lower off the chains.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-09-06
Route ID: 88346
Sorry Sal that you got your a$$ handed to you, but thanks for calling it a proud send. The route was put up ground up on sight. It's the scariest route I've ever bolted. It's run-out to the first bolt because that's where I found that bolt from an abandoned project of someones. Bring a stip clip, or a pad, or just suck it up buttercup. The clips are hard, becasue the holds are small. The run-out to the anchors is heads-up, but safe. I took the fall plenty of times. There was no place to stop, hence no bolt.
This route is destined to be an obscurity. It's unnessisarly runnout, dirty, poorly bolted, mixed, and groteskly sandbagged. The moves to the first bolt are dangerous and the crux moves are a fair deal above the bolts. The bolts in the crux section are also very hard to clip. The runnout sections to the last bolt are manageable but unnessisary. The route wasn't bolted on lead, but it's bolted like it was accept the bolts are placed in shity spots. The runnout section to the chains is pure bullshit. If this route was bolted on lead it would be a proud send, but it wasn't, so it's lame and dangerous at best. The crux section shut down a climber who has sent 5.14 several times and just onsighted the Silly Willy crack. So i'm guessing 5.13+.