Start in the corner down and left of the Groove. Begin by weaving your way up dikes shooting for a fixed pin in the corner just under the roof. Make some wild and exposed moves over the roof to a big protruding knob. Sling the knob for pro and move up to a large sloaping knob which must be mantled to reach a bolt. Clip the bolt and continue up about another 10 to 15ft where you will reach a decent sized dike which will allow you to traverse right around a blunt arete and onto a lower angle face. Some interesting nut placements and girth hitched protrusions offer limited protection. Contiune up large dikes between several 5.6 reaches and stay in the shallow corner system. Build an anchor at a large ledge formed by massive dikes or move right to the bolted anchors of the Groove. A second easy pitch will bring you to the top.
Walk off or rappel from the Groove.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-09-19
Route ID: 106659
Been eyeballing this route for some time. It's easily identified from the faded red slings hanging from the pin under the roof which have been there for at least the past 8 years. There is good pro just below the pin, the pin is solid, and there is some good pro just above the roof. The knob also makes a great piece of gear and a thank god hold. Climbing up to the bolt from the knob is pretty easy. There is a move or two above the bolt to reach the dike which will allow you to traverse right to easier ground. Continueing directly up from the bolt would make a better route (variation) but would definately require more bolts IMO. After traversing right about 25ft and climbing up about 40ft there is the first glimpse of pro about 8ft off route to the right in a pocket. I'd suggest utilizeing it. From there it's another 40ft or so runnout to the next good piece of pro. The climbing is 5.6 at most throughout these runnouts but is nicely exposed. I traversed right to the anchors of the Groove for the belay which was easy to do. The next pitch is easy 5th class.