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Harding's Chimney - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Warren Harding, Jim Ohrenschall, 1954
Rock
PG13
3
cams: 1 ea .6-1", 2 ea 1.25-3" (9-10" optional)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 3.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

"This is a classic old-school route for three reasons: it takes an obvious line, involves some spooky chimney climbing, and was put up by Warren Harding. The first pitch is the psychological and physical crux and features 5.8 squeeze chimney with a 50-foot runout (can be protected with 9-10" pieces). The second and third pitches are much more moderate and well-protected. The third pitch has a brief section of 5.7 face before an easy gully to a notch. Belay here and then do a short tunnel-through to the west side. For an alternate finish, stay on the east side and take the intimidating 5.8 stemming finish (look for the bolt and move right). Walk off to descend." ~ McNamara

Submitted by: pierredestcroix on 2008-03-26
Views: 1186
Route ID: 79021

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: TheDullEnd on 2009-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars taking lindsay out

first squeeze chimney

Added: 2009-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: TheDullEnd on 2009-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good to know i can still climb

first lead after a year offs

Added: 2009-11-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2009-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hardings Chimney

The 5.8 squeeze is stout and a wee bit runout.

Added: 2009-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: phewes on 2008-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thanks Warren

Wow, really enjoyed this climb! The crux getting into the squeeze chimney was a little nervy, but the run out on the rest of it was not as bad as it sounded. Did an alternate traverse right at the top rather than through the tunnel which I have done before. The traverse was not difficult but it did up the exposure level. I was thinking of doing Pony Express but there were at least 2 parties on that one so came to Harding Chimney, I'm super glad I did.

Added: 2008-04-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: TheDullEnd on 2007-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good time

the scary hollow flake on p2 was more terrifying than the run on p1. the chimney isnt that bad, it's runout but you wont fall.

Added: 2007-12-02

... Read all 9 ascent notes