"This is a classic old-school route for three reasons: it takes an obvious line, involves some spooky chimney climbing, and was put up by Warren Harding. The first pitch is the psychological and physical crux and features 5.8 squeeze chimney with a 50-foot runout (can be protected with 9-10" pieces). The second and third pitches are much more moderate and well-protected. The third pitch has a brief section of 5.7 face before an easy gully to a notch. Belay here and then do a short tunnel-through to the west side. For an alternate finish, stay on the east side and take the intimidating 5.8 stemming finish (look for the bolt and move right). Walk off to descend." ~ McNamara
Wow, really enjoyed this climb! The crux getting into the squeeze chimney was a little nervy, but the run out on the rest of it was not as bad as it sounded. Did an alternate traverse right at the top rather than through the tunnel which I have done before. The traverse was not difficult but it did up the exposure level. I was thinking of doing Pony Express but there were at least 2 parties on that one so came to Harding Chimney, I'm super glad I did.