On the very far rigth side of the East Face of Sugarloaf (to the right and around corner about 200ft from Lurch).
Climb a steep 4th class scramble in a corner to a nice big flat ledge.
Begin the route by chimneying between a large boulder and the wall to gain purchase on the wall. 4 bolts past very thin moves on an immaculately clean face bring you to lower angle face. Climb up the low angle right leaning crack/gully to the top. a cam or two might be wanted.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2012-02-10
Route ID: 110551
Burly thin face moves. The bolts probably could use an updating. A cam or two from fingers to about 2" could be used for the easier climbing past the last bolt. The Falcon guide calls this route 5.11a but there is no way a sane person could truthfully call it .11a.