This route is just before you start going back uphill (to Open Book) when walking around and toward the right side of the rock.
P1) Climb a beautiful 5.7 lieback crack to a tree.
P2) Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left; somewhat runout across easy face. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below an arching roof. Save the TCUs for this belay!
P3) Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to Lunch Ledge.
P4) Climb up and right to the top of the rock, with one variation going up a mossy face protected by an old bolt.
Walk off via friction descent.
Submitted by: justhavefun on 2007-04-26
Route ID: 11471
Midway up P1 there's a ramp that shoots off left to something else... don't take it. Stay heading up. For the long P2 apparantly there is a traditional route which stays under all but one of the arches to just a few feet past the apex making belay there, and a more popular route (easier) which traverses below the top arch and cuts up over it just before the apex. Contrary to the parties ahead of us, we went for the original route which made for some really fun 5.8ish underclings on friction for feet. Protection was ~10ft apart at the top of the arch leading to some pretty good swing potential for the followers (there may have been a couple spots to shorten swing potential using ball nuts or mini's if you really want and have the gear). P3 to lunch ledge from here was 5.6-. P4 used the 5.6finger crack.