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Traitor Horn - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.65/5 Average Rating : 4.65 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (62)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
4
pro to 3", 2 pitons to clip up the dihedral leading up to the real horn, gear anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.85/5
  Rock Quality 4.54/5
  Scenery 4.44/5
  Fun Factor 4.74/5

Description:

A fun upper pitch just to the left of Open Book. Get up to the big ramp left of "Traitor Horn" via Coffin Nail or first two pitches of Jensen's Jaunt. Belay left of the "Traitor Horn" to experience the thin ledge traverse, or right of the "Traitor Horn" (with a little 5.8 move) so belayer can maintain eye contact with the leader going up the dihedral crack to pull the roof and over onto the real horn. Rejoins last pitch of Jensen's Jaunt to the top

Descent Options:

walkoff via friction descent

Submitted by: baja_java on 2006-08-29
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 2581
Route ID: 5115

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62 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: caysedave on 2012-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Traitor Horn

Gusto

Added: 2012-11-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: shaner on 2011-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good times

Third follower in group of 3. The 5.10ish right most crack before the true horn is also a fun climb.

Added: 2012-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: mgoodro on 2012-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Climbed Coffin Nail (great) to Traitor Horn. Traverse into and up the dihedral before the horn is definitely the crux. The horn goes easy, felt 5.4 but very fun. Take time to savor the view from the horn before moving on!

Added: 2012-07-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: BenHorton on 2012-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun!

The horn section is a bit contrived, but well worth it.
I'd recommend doing Coffin Nail into Traiter horn.

Added: 2012-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Guinness_Love on 2011-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great

amazing exposure, can't believe that it only has two stars in the guide book

Added: 2011-10-31

... Read all 62 ascent notes