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Eumenides - 5.8

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock
standard rack; could include #4 camalot for pitch one
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

This is a worthwhile route, long and steep with one top-notch pitch, although it also has some lower quality and/or just plain uninteresting sections. It has a fair bit of tricky route-finding, a few runouts, and makes for a good adventure climb for the 5.8/9 leader. All the pitches are long. The start is easy to find--go past Mainliner, Sidetrack, etc. to the HUGE left-facing corner which extends most of the way up the rock. Scramble up 100 feet or so, then do a very long pitch up the 5.8 corner, which ends with a 30 foot slab traverse left to a belay. P2 wanders up, left, right, in and out of the corner, blah blah blah. Not too bad. Belay. P3 is the jewel of the route. Very steep, sustained 5.8 climbing with discontinuous finger cracks (good rock) and a bit of route-finding. The whole pitch trends left; belay at a tiny stance. P4 cuts up right, around a bulge, then up an easy ramp for a ways to belay in the big corner below a roof. P5 is a mixture of cool features and choss. Turn the 5.8 roof on the right or left (easier), then continue up easy choss to a final steep, fun topout. Go right (east) and carefully traverse down to the descent gully.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-02-11
Views: 335
Route ID: 48517

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dwise on 2005-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

After P1, it turned into an all-day routefinding adventure. Still not certain whether or not we were on route. Ended up doing 7 or 8 pitches, always wondering where the heck we were. Not worth the hike in.

Witnessed by: Markanite
Added: 2005-06-08