Just right of the trail at the base of the wall is a chimney system. Climb the chimney to a small ledge. Pitch 2 climbs up to the wide flake system. (1 & 2 can be easily combined) Pitch 3 is the business - a long 5-8" wide crack system between the flake and the wall. It is strenuous and hard, but secure and tough to fall out of. (Almost impossible to fall OUT of, if you are in the crack and not stemming. Experienced chimney climbers leave the #5 in the car) A classic fatty pitch.
Pitch 4 climbs thin cracks to just under a small roof. Pitch 5 pulls the roof, and then ascends easier terrain to a stopping place. Some easy scrambling over the top drops you in the descent gully down the east of the buttress.
This is a classic moderate long route. It is 5.7+++, and will probably feel more like 5.8 to most people. This may be the best 5.7 in Colorado.
Submitted by: thirdamigo on 2004-08-17
Route ID: 3778
are pretty much the choices. We climbed the off-width flake without ever getting in it. Used a #5, #6 and a blue big bro. There is a marginal, shallow red tri-cam placement and an even shallower #3 rp where the widest section begins, so you could skip the big bro if that's solid enough for you. Moderately polished, but still a good climb. Challenging for the grade. My partner suggests not getting a PMS girl on this route who doesn't love squeeze chimneys and off-widths. She may be right, but then the world (and I'm pretty sure the world heard it) would have missed all that cussing.
Some fantastic climbing. The roof on the last pitch is awesome. The chimney's detract slightly and I ran them out quite a bit but it'd be hard to fall out. Bring a #5 and #6 if wide stuff isn't your thing.