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Bruja's Brew - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
Sparse. Small cams, some bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Start 10' right of Lotta Balls. Up a corner capped by a roof. Traverse out right around the roof and up the thin and delicate face above, past a bolt, then angle up and right to a one bolt belay (nuts placements) 3 more pitches to the top of the formation.

Submitted by: drkodos on 2004-07-21
Views: 657
Route ID: 41097

10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Baja's Brew

Voodoo Doo is the best route on this wall, Black Magic 2nd and Baja's Brew and Lotta Balls tie for 3rd. The roof of course is the feature. Clip off a cam in the left side of the roof with a double runner. Make the fun (crux) traverse right to the arete and reach back and add another sling to avoid rope drag. You get one horizontal piece before the rusty (2014) hanger. Then angle up and right avoiding Lotta Ball's fixed station to the left. Head for the short yellow corner and belay from a fixed station above a stance. The 2nd pitch is mostly straight up the dishes and easy face climbing with plenty of pro when you need it. If Black Magic is busy, build your station in the main crack between Lotta Balls and Black Magic about 30-40' below the roof. This sets you up for angling right and just avoid the fixed station for Black Magic so you can pull the bulge above, hit the ramp going back left and avoid any traffic jams. There is one bolt at the start of this ramp and plenty of pro opportunities. Double sling anything you place as you will not pull onto the yellow face above until above that crack you belayed at below creating tons of rope drag if you don't use common sense. Belay in a 3-4" crack above. We un-roped and soloed this large crack to the top.

Added: 2014-04-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: cencalclimber on 2009-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool route

first pitch is great. Pro is marginal in some spots after the roof. The third pitch zig-zags up the roof and is surprisingly no harder than 5.6...but the leader has to choose between protecting the second or avoiding paralyzing rope drag.

Added: 2009-11-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Vagus on 2007-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Jolly

Didn't plan on doing this route, but others were on the others. I over protected the early roof traverse and dealt with a bitch of a rope drag.

Don't do that.

Added: 2007-11-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: moonbluff on 2005-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-08-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: grippedclimer on 2004-03-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-03-26

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