Start 10' right of Lotta Balls. Up a corner capped by a roof. Traverse out right around the roof and up the thin and delicate face above, past a bolt, then angle up and right to a one bolt belay (nuts placements) 3 more pitches to the top of the formation.
Submitted by: drkodos on 2004-07-21
Route ID: 41097
Voodoo Doo is the best route on this wall, Black Magic 2nd and Baja's Brew and Lotta Balls tie for 3rd. The roof of course is the feature. Clip off a cam in the left side of the roof with a double runner. Make the fun (crux) traverse right to the arete and reach back and add another sling to avoid rope drag. You get one horizontal piece before the rusty (2014) hanger. Then angle up and right avoiding Lotta Ball's fixed station to the left. Head for the short yellow corner and belay from a fixed station above a stance. The 2nd pitch is mostly straight up the dishes and easy face climbing with plenty of pro when you need it. If Black Magic is busy, build your station in the main crack between Lotta Balls and Black Magic about 30-40' below the roof. This sets you up for angling right and just avoid the fixed station for Black Magic so you can pull the bulge above, hit the ramp going back left and avoid any traffic jams. There is one bolt at the start of this ramp and plenty of pro opportunities. Double sling anything you place as you will not pull onto the yellow face above until above that crack you belayed at below creating tons of rope drag if you don't use common sense. Belay in a 3-4" crack above. We un-roped and soloed this large crack to the top.
first pitch is great. Pro is marginal in some spots after the roof. The third pitch zig-zags up the roof and is surprisingly no harder than 5.6...but the leader has to choose between protecting the second or avoiding paralyzing rope drag.