Routes : North America : United States : Nevada : Red Rock Canyon : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls
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Lotta Balls - 5.8 popular
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Randall Grandstaff, Joe Herbst
Rock
3
Standard rack plus bolts at the crux. Bolted anchors at the tops of P1 and P2.
500
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Description:
A characterful route named for the multitude of marble sized protrusions at the start of the second pitch. A little runout perhaps, but never dangerous, the start of P2, requiring careful balance and trust in the "balls," is a memorable lead. P1: (5.6) Ascend the stacked blocks to the left of a small roof system. Follow the vertical corner to the right arching flake and continue to the bolted anchors, 100' P2: (5.8) Ascend the famous ball-studded face past two bolts eventually joining an enormous dihedral system. Follow this and the face to its right to the bolted anchors on a spacious ledge, 180' P3:(5.5-5.6)Ascend the corner above you to the base of the roof, then step left and stretch your rope to a semi-nice stance with good pro, 200' P4: From here, if you're solid, you can unrope for the last 100' to the top of the climb. It's probably 5.2ish or something. There are blocks up top for belay. Descent: From the top of P2, two double rope rappels will get you to the base. (Supposedly 50's will work, but I thought the 2nd pitch was a bit long for that). From the summit: Head south and slightly right, downclimbing into the gully. From here, you can do 3 single rope rappels and then walk back to the base.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-10-13
Views: 626
Route ID: 37181
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49 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 49 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
great climbing on little knobs
very interesting edging on small knobs. easy to get rope stuck.
Added: 2009-11-16
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
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Balls!
The balls pitch was fun, wished it was longer. P1 and P2 are also very enjoyable.
Added: 2009-11-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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None
led p2
Added: 2009-04-27
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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fun
really fun climb. interesting formations all around. not really all the balls I had hoped for but well worth the trip
Added: 2008-08-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Lotta Balls
Black Magic is more challenging and interesting I thought. First pitch of Lotta is the classic climbing. The 2nd is sketching chicken heads (balls)...don't see the allure in that. The 3rd pitch is a little fun, but mostly scrambling to the top. Still a better climb than Frogland for example.
Added: 2008-04-14
