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Lotta Balls - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (57)
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Rock
3
Standard rack plus bolts at the crux. Bolted anchors at the tops of P1 and P2.
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.16/5
  Scenery 4.23/5
  Fun Factor 4.35/5

Description:

A characterful route named for the multitude of marble sized protrusions at the start of the second pitch. A little runout perhaps, but never dangerous, the start of P2, requiring careful balance and trust in the "balls," is a memorable lead. P1: (5.6) Ascend the stacked blocks to the left of a small roof system. Follow the vertical corner to the right arching flake and continue to the bolted anchors, 100' P2: (5.8) Ascend the famous ball-studded face past two bolts eventually joining an enormous dihedral system. Follow this and the face to its right to the bolted anchors on a spacious ledge, 180' P3:(5.5-5.6)Ascend the corner above you to the base of the roof, then step left and stretch your rope to a semi-nice stance with good pro, 200' P4: From here, if you're solid, you can unrope for the last 100' to the top of the climb. It's probably 5.2ish or something. There are blocks up top for belay. Descent: From the top of P2, two double rope rappels will get you to the base. (Supposedly 50's will work, but I thought the 2nd pitch was a bit long for that). From the summit: Head south and slightly right, downclimbing into the gully. From here, you can do 3 single rope rappels and then walk back to the base.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2004-10-13
Views: 1682
Route ID: 37181

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57 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rode8218 on 2011-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great CLIMB! Awesome

First ever Multi-Pitch Trad climb. Great route. Coming off the second belay is the mental and technical crux (5.9). Great route with fun features and awesome climbing. Great exposure and view. FUN!

Added: 2011-11-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Crazy Balls

The climbing is easy but man are those balls scary. Really fun climbing.

Added: 2011-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: amigo25zmy on 2011-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

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Added: 2011-05-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nkane on 2011-03-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Really fun

The ball pitch is totally rad, but the rest of the route isn't terribly memorable, and much easier. Good warmup route for the trip with a blessedly easy descent.

Added: 2011-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: explorator on 2010-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars led all 3

just had to come back and lead this route. rpt. w/Brian. one hard move on balls way above 2nd bolt.

Added: 2010-06-12

... Read all 57 ascent notes