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Bombay Groove, a.k.a. Yankee Go Home - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock (Trad)
Sparse bolts.Double bolts at the belays.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

aka Yankee Go Home. If you are standing at the base of the Great Arch, just look up and to the left - basically you'll be climbing along that arete. Start at the base of the Great Brown Way (just left of the start) to the first set of double bolts. Then traverse right to the edge of the arete. Then up you go.

Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-04-10
Last Modified: 2011-11-21
Views: 1505
Route ID: 15601

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent Lead

This is a really fun route, even with the sketchy traverse. My partner slipped on the traverse when seconding. The rope was tight so he didn't go far. I turned it into two pitches rather than three. I had forgotten how crappy the rock is up top. Be very careful as it is easy to slip due to the crumbling rock. I didn't have any trouble but it was still a bit disconcerting.

Added: 2012-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good way to get away from the crowds.

This is my second time leading this route. I started on Great Brown Way, traversing wide right at the first bolt. I do not care much for the traverse but still had a good time. I did take a slightly different line this time around. On the second pitch I clipped the belay anchors for protection and moved right to the next water groove and followed it to the top. It was about the same difficulty as the left water groove but had better rock. The guidebook does not even mention the belay anchors on pitch two and only shows two pitches. I guess it could be done in three pitches but it seems odd since the end of the route is so near.

Added: 2011-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Intimidating but Exciting

This was the third of four routes we climbed today in blistering heat. Again, I lead the entire route. We used the standard approach and climbed to the first bolt on Great Brown Way. I plugged a few cams into the flakes for added protection before clipping the bolt. It can be a little tricky actually getting to the bolt, so be safe. From there, a traverse is required to reach the arete. I found the traverse to be a bit intimidating and proceeded with much caution. Once on the arete, I felt at ease and clipped a single bolt on the way to the first belay. There is a small traverse to the left involved in reaching the belay since it is shared with Great Brown Way.

For the second pitch, traverse back to the arete and follow it to a bolt at a water groove. From there, follow the groove to the top. There was one more bolt in the groove and another set of belay anchors before reaching the top. The route is only supposed to have two pitches, so I do not know why there is another set of belay anchors. I clipped in for protection and continued to the double belay at the top. The only problem I encountered was the poor quality of the rock on the second pitch. Everywhere I stepped seemed to crumble due to the loose rock. Of course, I may just be too heavy for this type of rock. With the additional set of belays, we were able to make three raps back to the tree ledge with a single 70M rope.



Added: 2011-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: MonkeySpank on 2010-03-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great views of climbers below on Great Arch

P1 was tough to make over the mantle, and I was seconding thankfully. I led P2, which was pretty mellow, and enjoyed the view of the climbers down below on Great Arch. P3 was very mellow.

Added: 2010-03-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trenchdigger on 2007-03-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Groovy...

P1 is tricky and heady. P2 is easy, well protected at the crux, and fun.

Added: 2007-03-11

... Read all 11 ascent notes