Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Whiteside Mountain : Main Wall : Arm and Hammer
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Arm and Hammer - 5.12a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Stegg and Roberts '91
Rock
G
8
Singles through 4", lots of draws
750
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Description:
P1 Start on Volunteer Wall from atop a small ledge aiming for a large right facing hollow flake; P2 (combine with pitch 1) go up and trend right from the bolt above the flake, traverse right and pull the bulge at a protruding block (10b); P3 climb up to the left facing corner until you can step right and place a 4" cam, go straight up past a ledge onto steeper rock and place a 3" cam, aim for the bolt on a lichen covered face, then cut hard left to the anchor just right of the large right facing dihedral(9+); P4 climb up past a few bolts and trend hard right, skirting the roof to the right via a black streak to a fixed anchor (10c); P5 Welcome to the headwall! Head up and right from the belay and follow a line of bolts up a steep and sustained face through a white band (once established on the face don't get drawn further right by other bolts, this is another route). Cut left and climb past a blank quartz section to the anchor. (11d); P6 Pull the bulge directly above the anchor, cut right and make a couple of delicate moves until you can achieve the steepness. Go! (12a); P7 Clip the bolt above the belay and go right onto a ledge. Place a 4" cam and tackle the face past a fixed head and bolts to a crack. (12a); P8 Finish to the top past the cavers' rap station and hop the cable fence. (5.5)
Submitted by: sf on 2010-05-10
Views: 865
Route ID: 104745
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
See zealotnoob's description below
Nothing more to add, except that this is a good route. Looking forward to coming back for the redpoint.
Added: 2011-12-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Sport climbing in the sky following entrance fee
P1 starts with highball 5.8 to a well protected 11a crux, then a 10b run out over a bolt, finishing on easier run out terrain. onsight.
P2 climbs easy terrain, almost void of protection as you figure out where the 'ell you're going. Then you get a bolt and a few thin face moves to the belay. onsight.
P3-6 no worries sport climbing in the sky for the most part (P6 takes some gear). We got P3 onsight, P4 clean until isayautumn broke a hold and fell on the traverse, P5 hangdog but free, and P6 with one hang at the devious move at the last bolt.
P7 meh, onsight
P2 climbs easy terrain, almost void of protection as you figure out where the 'ell you're going. Then you get a bolt and a few thin face moves to the belay. onsight.
P3-6 no worries sport climbing in the sky for the most part (P6 takes some gear). We got P3 onsight, P4 clean until isayautumn broke a hold and fell on the traverse, P5 hangdog but free, and P6 with one hang at the devious move at the last bolt.
P7 meh, onsight
Added: 2011-12-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
Great "easy" headwall route
I didn't go up expecting to onsight the crux pitches, instead just focusing on having fun and checking it out. I plan to return and put a little time into it for the full RP.
The headwall is like a giant sport route with some of the wildest exposure this side of the Mississippi.
The headwall is like a giant sport route with some of the wildest exposure this side of the Mississippi.
Added: 2010-05-10
