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Arm and Hammer - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Stegg and Roberts '91
Rock
G
8
Singles through 4", lots of draws
750
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

P1 Start on Volunteer Wall from atop a small ledge aiming for a large right facing hollow flake; P2 (combine with pitch 1) go up and trend right from the bolt above the flake, traverse right and pull the bulge at a protruding block (10b); P3 climb up to the left facing corner until you can step right and place a 4" cam, go straight up past a ledge onto steeper rock and place a 3" cam, aim for the bolt on a lichen covered face, then cut hard left to the anchor just right of the large right facing dihedral(9+); P4 climb up past a few bolts and trend hard right, skirting the roof to the right via a black streak to a fixed anchor (10c); P5 Welcome to the headwall! Head up and right from the belay and follow a line of bolts up a steep and sustained face through a white band (once established on the face don't get drawn further right by other bolts, this is another route). Cut left and climb past a blank quartz section to the anchor. (11d); P6 Pull the bulge directly above the anchor, cut right and make a couple of delicate moves until you can achieve the steepness. Go! (12a); P7 Clip the bolt above the belay and go right onto a ledge. Place a 4" cam and tackle the face past a fixed head and bolts to a crack. (12a); P8 Finish to the top past the cavers' rap station and hop the cable fence. (5.5)

Submitted by: sf on 2010-05-10
Views: 675
Route ID: 104745

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars See zealotnoob's description below

Nothing more to add, except that this is a good route. Looking forward to coming back for the redpoint.

Added: 2011-12-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sport climbing in the sky following entrance fee

P1 starts with highball 5.8 to a well protected 11a crux, then a 10b run out over a bolt, finishing on easier run out terrain. onsight.

P2 climbs easy terrain, almost void of protection as you figure out where the 'ell you're going. Then you get a bolt and a few thin face moves to the belay. onsight.

P3-6 no worries sport climbing in the sky for the most part (P6 takes some gear). We got P3 onsight, P4 clean until isayautumn broke a hold and fell on the traverse, P5 hangdog but free, and P6 with one hang at the devious move at the last bolt.

P7 meh, onsight


Added: 2011-12-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: sf on 2010-05-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great "easy" headwall route

I didn't go up expecting to onsight the crux pitches, instead just focusing on having fun and checking it out. I plan to return and put a little time into it for the full RP.
The headwall is like a giant sport route with some of the wildest exposure this side of the Mississippi.

Added: 2010-05-10