9 Pitches, starting with a 160 foot 5.7 free solo! The 5.11 pitch is bolted for a 3-clip A0. The 5.10 pitch is nice and steep. The 5.9 pitch is hard especially for short people.
UPDATE: The bolts at the top of pitches 4 and 5 have been chopped. At the top of P4, there is a single bolt to build an anchor on, and at the top of P5, all the bolts have been chopped. But there is a good place to build a natural anchor in a crack surrounding the bulge at the beginning of the crescent pitch (the guidebook says there are double bolt anchors for both pitches, so make sure you bring enough gear to build an anchor at the top of P5, which takes smaller gear).
Submitted by: timhinck on 2007-07-31
Route ID: 19736
For a non slab climber such as myself, I found the first pitch to be a little on the scary side. Simply put, I'm just not used to making slab moves like that. Either way, it was worth it. The rest of the route was nice, if a little circuitous. Been meaning to get on this route for some time now, and it feels good to have done it, although not nearly as quickly as we had hoped.
climbed this with isayautumn using only the description from MP.com. we found our way, but not in "hiking and blasting" style as intended. i popped a couple times on the sandbag pitch, but got it clean from the belay on the third try (no ankle worry if you trust your belayer's grit stone belay). isayautumn onsighted the bolt ladder, and I followed clean. all the hard stuff is well protected, but expect plenty of low angle easy terrain where a fall would be catastrophic.
Unless you are a purist, end this route on Traditions for a much higher quality and more direct finish. Pitches 5 & 6 can be combined if you pay attention to rope drag, but this also means running out the start of pitch 5 (5.6) a little bit.
Did the linkup into the last three pitches of Traditions. 70m works great for linking. Great climbing, beautiful weather, and lots of sunshine. Both of the cruxes were reachy, so it would be difficult for a shorter person, but still managed the onsight in about 5 hours with traffic in front of us.