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Original Route - 5.11a popular

Average Rating = 4.89/5 Average Rating : 4.89 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (23)
Rock
G
small cams (to 2.5), nuts, and 60 or 70 meter rope. 2 ropes if you must bail.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.29/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

9 Pitches, starting with a 160 foot 5.7 free solo! The 5.11 pitch is bolted for a 3-clip A0. The 5.10 pitch is nice and steep. The 5.9 pitch is hard especially for short people. UPDATE: The bolts at the top of pitches 4 and 5 have been chopped. At the top of P4, there is a single bolt to build an anchor on, and at the top of P5, all the bolts have been chopped. But there is a good place to build a natural anchor in a crack surrounding the bulge at the beginning of the crescent pitch (the guidebook says there are double bolt anchors for both pitches, so make sure you bring enough gear to build an anchor at the top of P5, which takes smaller gear).

Submitted by: timhinck on 2007-07-31
Views: 904
Route ID: 19736

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23 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a A0
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ncclimber on 2009-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars OR to Traditions Finish new

What a long route. Loved the rock so different from other NC areas. Perfect day to spend it on the rock with friends. Climbed it in two teams of two.

Added: 2009-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2009-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars OR to Traditions finish... Awesome.

If you can deal with a few 5.8 R-ish moves, and a healthy dose of unprotected 5.6 (or easier), this link up is very reasonable. I found the bolt ladder crux hard, but not scary at all. The most gripping bits were the 9+ white ramp and the 10c bit. The white ramp was a bit exposed and comes late on the link up. My brain was a bit cooked by then. The 10c bit has some ledgefall potential. The crescent pitch is amazing!

Added: 2009-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating X
Onsight Onsight ascent by: munky on 2009-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Original Route on Whitesides

5 hrs all free with Steve

Added: 2009-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sf on 2009-02-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good

all free

Added: 2009-02-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aya on 2007-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sweet

Very nice outing. It's not particularly exposed, for all that it's so long!

I love the genuinely downhill both ways approach!!!!!

Added: 2007-08-14

... Read all 23 ascent notes