Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Whiteside Mountain : Main Wall : Original Route
Original Route - 5.11a popular
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Rock
G
small cams (to 2.5), nuts, and 60 or 70 meter rope. 2 ropes if you must bail.
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Description:
9 Pitches, starting with a 160 foot 5.7 free solo! The 5.11 pitch is bolted for a 3-clip A0. The 5.10 pitch is nice and steep. The 5.9 pitch is hard especially for short people. UPDATE: The bolts at the top of pitches 4 and 5 have been chopped. At the top of P4, there is a single bolt to build an anchor on, and at the top of P5, all the bolts have been chopped. But there is a good place to build a natural anchor in a crack surrounding the bulge at the beginning of the crescent pitch (the guidebook says there are double bolt anchors for both pitches, so make sure you bring enough gear to build an anchor at the top of P5, which takes smaller gear).
Submitted by: timhinck on 2007-07-31
Views: 904
Route ID: 19736
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23 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 23 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a A0 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
OR to Traditions Finish
new
What a long route. Loved the rock so different from other NC areas. Perfect day to spend it on the rock with friends. Climbed it in two teams of two.
Added: 2009-11-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
OR to Traditions finish... Awesome.
If you can deal with a few 5.8 R-ish moves, and a healthy dose of unprotected 5.6 (or easier), this link up is very reasonable. I found the bolt ladder crux hard, but not scary at all. The most gripping bits were the 9+ white ramp and the 10c bit. The white ramp was a bit exposed and comes late on the link up. My brain was a bit cooked by then. The 10c bit has some ledgefall potential. The crescent pitch is amazing!
Added: 2009-07-05
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | X |
Original Route on Whitesides
5 hrs all free with Steve
Added: 2009-04-13
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | R |
good
all free
Added: 2009-02-07
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
sweet
Very nice outing. It's not particularly exposed, for all that it's so long!
I love the genuinely downhill both ways approach!!!!!
I love the genuinely downhill both ways approach!!!!!
Added: 2007-08-14





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