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variation: T-Roofic Direct - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
G
Bolted to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Start directly under the #2 bolt. A stick clip is optional.

Submitted by: blackwell4 on 2005-11-26
Last Modified: 2011-02-01
Views: 848
Route ID: 72067

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: tharris242 on 2011-11-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Favorite Reimer's route so far... (of 20).

Put this under Detour at first, but think I am doing direct.

I'll give it a PG13 for the 'approach' to the first bolt. You only realize how steep it is once you lower.

I blew out my forearms deciding what to do over the roof so I hung on the third bolt. (I sort of had negative beta.) I soldiered on, not fully recovered, and gave out again just before the anchors.

Update: Second time was charmed. Got the red point two weeks later on next attempt.

5 bolts; 2 'sport' anchors.

Added: 2012-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2010-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars better than the main route (T-Roofic Detour).

This variation looks squeezed and hokey from the ground, but
1. lots of moves to get up onto the main route.
2. more fun than the main route's crimpy start
3. made the rest of the route much more pumpy and feeling like similar pumpfests (Blowing Smoke, El Presidente, Wife).

Stick Clip.


Added: 2010-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: CT_STUDIO on 2009-01-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The start is where it's at...

beginning is sketchy, the rest of the climb is chill

Added: 2009-02-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: the_dave on 2006-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-09-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: blackwell4 on 2005-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-06-26