Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Reimers Ranch : Prototype Wall : Sugar
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Sugar - 5.10d
Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rebecca Gonzales
Rock
PG13
4 bolts to anchors
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Description:
Runout to the last bolt; it's easy to get your leg in front of the rope and invert-fall. "Sugar" supposedly uses the big jug on Prototype, whereas the variation "Spice" skips it.
Submitted by: c-horse on 2002-03-14
Last Modified: 2010-09-28
Views: 1191
Route ID: 13622
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Flash ascent by:
Bad Luck
Flashed this route today at the limestoner, which put me three points ahead of my buddy who scored second place(intermediate division), unfortunately those 3 points bumped me up to advanced, so instead of winning intermediate and getting a new rope, I lost in advanced :( Climbing this was a bad decision.
Kind of a tough route though for sure, I'd call it upper level 5.11a.
Kind of a tough route though for sure, I'd call it upper level 5.11a.
Added: 2011-04-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
as good as any route on this wall
This route has cooler low moves, less polish, and it's more sustained than the six popular routes on this wall. The only knocks are the runout, and it was the last squeeze job so you stay off Prototype jugs (Spice) or not (Sugar).
Peeps, 10d is like calling Mas Cerveza 10d/11a. Do alternating runs back and forth on Unnatural Selection and Sugar and see which one starts kicking your butt quicker. I think it's 11b or c.
Peeps, 10d is like calling Mas Cerveza 10d/11a. Do alternating runs back and forth on Unnatural Selection and Sugar and see which one starts kicking your butt quicker. I think it's 11b or c.
Added: 2010-09-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
han
...
Added: 2010-05-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
fun
another good route
Added: 2009-11-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
overshadowed
Sugar (and it's direct variation "Spice") are greatly overshadowed by their neighbor to the left, Prototype, the one to the right, Bolt Talk. It's a good climb with a fun move at start and a few other nice pockets and crimps thrown in there, too.
Flashed it on TR.
Flashed it on TR.
Added: 2009-05-31
