The Gilgameck Vagina - 5.9

Deep, dirty cracks for my hands...just like I like 'em.

Awkward and fun is the best way I can describe it. My first 5.9 trad lead too. It was raining really heavy all day and this was the only climb we could find that was dry. It was protected perfectly by and overhang. My belayer was soaked by the time I was done. So he gets the beer for rather than me for finishing the climb ;)

The route protects REALLY well though. I sewed it up quite well. Placed all sizes. Metollius Blue #1 - Black Diamond #5. Didn't use any passive gear, but doesn't mean it won't take it.

This route is also now one of my all time favorites, even though I was struggling the whole way up! I think I like this style of climbing in some sick and twisted way.

I found this climb quite ackward. For me, the first two thirds consisted of jaming my body into a chimney and wiggling up. The final third was quite fun, but for me, not worth the ordeal in the bottom two thirds.