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Harvey's Wallbanger Right - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.57/5 Average Rating : 3.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
Rock
Standard rack and long slings
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.29/5
  Rock Quality 3.57/5
  Scenery 3.86/5
  Fun Factor 3.71/5

Description:

From the Supertopo site "This climb is better and more sustained than the Center route. Some of the first 30 feet of dirty climbing can be avoided by climbing on the right face. The pitch then ascends a 150-foot-long right facing corner with fun liebacking, stemming, and the occasional hand jam. If you set the first belay in the first large pod, bring extra 2.5-3.5 cams. If you set the belay 10 feet higher you have more gear options. The awkward one-move 5.7 crux involves throwing your left hip into the wide crack and liebacking the edge with your right hand to get your body into a chimney position. Protect the move with a 4.5” or avoid the crux entirely by face climbing left and joining the center route. A second crux comes 10 feet higher on a 5.6 mantel over a bulge that looks intimidating, but is straightforward."

Submitted by: forbin on 2004-06-09
Views: 346
Route ID: 54221

16 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 16 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: greenrocker on 2009-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars HW right

good climb straight forward

Added: 2009-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: retro67 on 2009-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Solo

Didn't want to let go of hand jam to get over 5.6 roof at top. Tried 2 or 3 times before I fugured out how to make the move 100% solid. the "awkward" 5.7 was easy and secure.

Added: 2009-09-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ebird on 2009-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

Did it in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. Avoided roof direct by going to the right--holds above.

Added: 2009-06-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockwizard on 2009-06-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

supertopo makes this route sound more difficult than it climbs

Added: 2009-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: xman1340 on 2007-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hanging Belay

Good times.

Added: 2007-09-17

... Read all 16 ascent notes