First pitch is real easy (5.2). Climb up to tree and belay from there. Follow crack up and to the left. The 5.5 crux is short and easy near the start of the second pitch. The crack widens (large cam is handy). and then you need to climb out of crack. Rope will not reach to the top. Short third pitch. Nice climb to bring beginner on. This climb can be done in two pitches if you set the first belay about 25-35 feet above the tree. [note: make sure you get high enough on the first belay if you want to do it in 2 pitches: run the rope ALL THE WAY out, or you will need to simulclimb on the second pitch without being able to see or hear your partner.] Also, the wide section can be protected with a well placed hex or two instead of a large cam.
Submitted by: comet on 2005-06-25
Route ID: 11613
My climbing partner and I sat around trying to decide what to do about saturday brunch late on friday night. When we couldn't agree we decided the only reasonable thing was to drive out to Tahoe and attempt to climb hogsback. Yes we knew it would be partially under snow. Isn't that why we all climb though the Adventure.
The aproach in took close to 3 hours but that is partly because we missed the left turn off the main trail. The rest was coming around the side of hogs back while it was covered in snow.
The climb itself was clear accept the first part of the first pitch. We snow climbed to the clear rock and then added a pitch I wil call the hogs tail traverse - traversing where the snow met the rock adding a few pieces of gear here and there to stop major slips from equalling sliding down to the bottem of hogs back.
I did the first pitch in my 5.10 apoach shoes. We used the tree as an anchor for the first pitch and I put on my climbing shoes. The second pitch gave me some trouble - a few wet spots meant slipping.
The anchor was built above the piton and the final pitch I led. Good easy pro quick pitch - at most a 5.1/5.2 with the end being a 4th class run up to a tree.
Over all a great climb - good fun and a great place to place your first peices of gear.