Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : West Face : Back in Black
Previous
Back in Black - 5.11d
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Jay Smith, Karl McConachie (1986)
Rock (Trad)
G
1
4 bolts
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Located between two large detached pillars on the west side of Sugarloaf between the routes Hyperspace and the Podium. Start up a short, easy chimney system which forms the left (up hill) side of the Podium and gain the ledge system on top the Podium chimney. On the far left side of this chimney is a series of bolts heading up and left. This is Back in Black. A series of steep sequential and powerful moves past the first few bolts leads to progressively easier climbing. After the 4th bolt is a long (about 30 to 40ft) runnout, but the climbing is trivial and scarcely harder than 5.6, though it is quite exposed.Descent Options:
Rappel to anchors of Hyperspace and then to ground with a 60m rope or walk off.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-11-02
Views: 760
Route ID: 107134
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Burly
Some pretty difficult cranking just after the first bolt. The moves were unique and a bit puzzling for me. But once I worked it out I felt the grade was about right, maybe just a tad sandbagged. The R grade is only for the easy climbing above the 4th bolt. If you can get to that bolt, you're not going to have a problem with the 5.6 above.
All bolts were replaced with 1/2"x 2 3/4 5 piece Powers bolts and ASCA hangers on 10/31/10.
All bolts were replaced with 1/2"x 2 3/4 5 piece Powers bolts and ASCA hangers on 10/31/10.
Added: 2010-11-02
