Located between two large detached pillars on the west side of Sugarloaf between the routes Hyperspace and the Podium. Start up a short, easy chimney system which forms the left (up hill) side of the Podium and gain the ledge system on top the Podium chimney. On the far left side of this chimney is a series of bolts heading up and left. This is Back in Black. A series of steep sequential and powerful moves past the first few bolts leads to progressively easier climbing. After the 4th bolt is a long (about 30 to 40ft) runnout, but the climbing is trivial and scarcely harder than 5.6, though it is quite exposed.
Rappel to anchors of Hyperspace and then to ground with a 60m rope or walk off.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-11-02
Route ID: 107134
Some pretty difficult cranking just after the first bolt. The moves were unique and a bit puzzling for me. But once I worked it out I felt the grade was about right, maybe just a tad sandbagged. The R grade is only for the easy climbing above the 4th bolt. If you can get to that bolt, you're not going to have a problem with the 5.6 above.
All bolts were replaced with 1/2"x 2 3/4 5 piece Powers bolts and ASCA hangers on 10/31/10.