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Back in Black - 5.11d

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Jay Smith, Karl McConachie (1986)
Rock (Trad)
4 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


Located between two large detached pillars on the west side of Sugarloaf between the routes Hyperspace and the Podium. Start up a short, easy chimney system which forms the left (up hill) side of the Podium and gain the ledge system on top the Podium chimney. On the far left side of this chimney is a series of bolts heading up and left. This is Back in Black. A series of steep sequential and powerful moves past the first few bolts leads to progressively easier climbing. After the 4th bolt is a long (about 30 to 40ft) runnout, but the climbing is trivial and scarcely harder than 5.6, though it is quite exposed.

Descent Options:

Rappel to anchors of Hyperspace and then to ground with a 60m rope or walk off.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2010-11-02
Views: 609
Route ID: 107134

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2010-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Burly

Some pretty difficult cranking just after the first bolt. The moves were unique and a bit puzzling for me. But once I worked it out I felt the grade was about right, maybe just a tad sandbagged. The R grade is only for the easy climbing above the 4th bolt. If you can get to that bolt, you're not going to have a problem with the 5.6 above.

All bolts were replaced with 1/2"x 2 3/4 5 piece Powers bolts and ASCA hangers on 10/31/10.

Added: 2010-11-02